Redline D600 Manual
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OWNERS MANUAL
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Bicycle Owner’s Manual
Edition 11 2013
This manual meets EN Standards 14764, 14766 and 14781.
IMPORTANT:
This manual contains important safety, performance and service information. Read it before
you take the first ride on your new bicycle, and keep it for reference.
Additional safety, performance and service information for specific components such as
suspension or pedals on your bicycle, or for accessories such as helmets or lights that
you purchase, may also be available. Make sure that your dealer has given you all the
manufacturers’ literature that was included with your bicycle or accessories. In case of a
conflict between the instructions in this manual and information provided by a component
manufacturer, always follow the component manufacturer’s instructions.
If you have any questions or do not understand something, take responsibility for your safety
and consult with your dealer or the bicycle’s manufacturer.
NOTE:
This manual is not intended as a comprehensive use, service, repair or maintenance manual. Please see
your dealer for all service, repairs or maintenance. Your dealer may also be able to refer you to classes,
clinics or books on bicycle use, service, repair or maintenance.
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Contents
GENERAL WARNING p. 5
A special note to parents p. 6
1. First
A. Bike fit p. 7
B. Safety first p. 7
C. Mechanical Safety Check p. 8
D. First ride p. 10
2. Safety
A. The Basics p. 11
B. Riding Safety p. 12
C. O Road Safety p. 13
D. Wet Weather Riding p. 14
E. Night Riding p. 15
F. Extreme, stunt or competition riding p. 16
G. Changing Components or Adding Accessories p. 18
3.Fit
A. Standover height p. 19
B. Saddle position p. 19
C. Handlebar height and angle p. 22
D. Control position adjustments p. 23
E. Brake reach p. 23
4. Tech
A. Wheels p. 24
1. Secondary retention devices p. 25
2. Wheels with cam action systems p. 26
3. Removing and installing wheels p. 26
B. Seat post cam action clamp p. 30
C. Brakes p. 31
D. Shifting gears p. 34
E. Pedals p. 38
F. Bicycle Suspension p. 39
G. Tires and Tubes p. 41
5. Service
A. Service Intervals p. 44
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B. If your bicycle sustains an impact p. 46
Appendix A: Intended Use p. 47
Appendix B: Lifespan of your bike and its components p. 56
Appendix C: Coaster Brakes p. 65
Appendix D: Fastener Torque Specifications p. 65
Appendix E: Teaching your child the rules p. 66
Appendix F: Bicycle Trac p. 69
Assembly Instructions p. 74
GENERAL WARNING:
Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle,
you assume the responsibility for that risk, so you need to know — and to practice — the
rules of safe and responsible riding and of proper use and maintenance. Proper use and
maintenance of your bicycle reduces risk of injury.
This Manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning the consequences of
failure to maintain or inspect your bicycle and of failure to follow safe cycling practices.
• The combination of the safety alert symbol and the word WARNING indicates a
potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result in serious injury or death.
• The combination of the safety alert symbol and the word indicates a CAUTION
potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury,
or is an alert against unsafe practices.
• The word CAUTION used without the safety alert symbol indicates a situation which, if
not avoided, could result in serious damage to the bicycle or the voiding of your warranty.
Many of the Warnings and Cautions say “you may lose control and fall”. Because any fall
can result in serious injury or even death, we do not always repeat the warning of possible
injury or death.
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Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation or condition which can occur while
riding, this Manual makes no representation about the safe use of the bicycle under all
conditions. There are risks associated with the use of any bicycle which cannot be predicted
or avoided, and which are the sole responsibility of the rider.
A special note for parents:
As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the activities and safety of your minor child,
and that includes making sure that the bicycle is properly fitted to the child; that it is in good
repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child have learned and understand the
safe operation of the bicycle; and that you and your child have learned, understand and obey
not only the applicable local motor vehicle, bicycle and trac laws, but also the common
sense rules of safe and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you should read this manual, as well
as review its warnings and the bicycle’s functions and operating procedures with your child,
before letting your child ride the bicycle.
WARNING: Make sure that your child always wears an approved bicycle helmet when
riding; but also make sure that your child understands that a bicycle helmet is for bicycling
only, and must be removed when not riding. A helmet must not be worn while playing, in
play areas, on playground equipment, while climbing trees, or at any time while not riding
a bicycle. Failure to follow this warning could result in serious injury or death.
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1. First
NOTE: We strongly urge you to read this Manual in its entirety before your first ride. At the
very least, read and make sure that you understand each point in this section, and refer to
the cited sections on any issue which you don’t completely understand. Please note that not
all bicycles have all of the features described in this Manual. Ask your dealer to point out the
features of your bicycle.
A. Bike fit
1. Is your bike the right size? To check, see Section 3.A. If your bicycle is too large or too
small for you, you may lose control and fall. If your new bike is not the right size, ask your
dealer to exchange it before you ride it.
2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see Section 3.B. If you adjust your saddle
height, follow the Minimum Insertion instructions in Section 3.B.
3. Are saddle and seat post securely clamped? A correctly tightened saddle will allow no
saddle movement in any direction. See Section 3.B.
4. Are the stem and handlebars at the right height for you? If not, see Section 3.C.
5. Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not, you may be able to adjust their angle
and reach. See Section 3.D and 3.E.
6. Do you fully understand how to operate your new bicycle? If not, before your first ride,
have your dealer explain any functions or features which you do not understand.
B. Safety first
1. Always wear an approved helmet when riding your bike, and follow the helmet
manufacturer’s instructions for fit, use and care.
2. Do you have all the other required and recommended safety equipment? See Section 2.
It’s your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the areas where you ride, and
to comply with all applicable laws.
3. Do you know how to correctly secure your front and rear wheels? Check Section 4.A.1
to make sure. Riding with an improperly secured wheel can cause the wheel to wobble or
disengage from the bicycle, and cause serious injury or death.
4. If your bike has toeclips and straps or clipless (“step-in”) pedals, make sure you know
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sure, ask someone with experience to check.
Tires & Wheels: Make sure tires are correctly inflated (see Section 4.G.1). Check by putting
one hand on the saddle, one on the intersection of the handlebars and stem, then bouncing
your weight on the bike while looking at tire deflection. Compare what you see with how it
looks when you know the tires are correctly inflated; and adjust if necessary.
Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look for cuts in the tread and sidewall.
Replace damaged tires before riding the bike.
Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance and side-to-side wobble. If a
wheel wobbles side to side even slightly, or rubs against or hits the brake pads, take the bike
to a qualified bike shop to have the wheel trued.
CAUTION: Wheels must be true for rim brakes to work eectively. Wheel trueing is a
skill which requires special tools and experience. Do not attempt to true a wheel
unless you have the knowledge, experience and tools needed to do the job correctly.
Wheel rims clean and undamaged? Make sure the rims are clean and undamaged at the
tire bead and, if you have rim brakes, along the braking surface. Check to make sure that any
rim wear indicator marking is not visible at any point on the wheel rim.
WARNING: Bicycle wheel rims are subject to wear. Ask your dealer about wheel rim
wear. Some wheel rims have a rim wear indicator which becomes visible as the rim’s
braking surface wears. A visible rim wear indicator on the side of the wheel rim is an
indication that the wheel rim has reached its maximum usable life. Riding a wheel that is at
the end of its usable life can result in wheel failure, which can cause you to loose control
and fall.
Brakes: Check the brakes for proper operation (see Sections 4.C). Squeeze the brake
levers. Are the brake quick-releases closed? All control cables seated and securely
engaged? If you have rim brakes, do the brake pads contact the wheel rim squarely and
make full contact with the rim? Do the brakes begin to engage within an inch of brake lever
movement? Can you apply full braking force at the levers without having them touch the
handlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment. Do not ride the bike until the brakes are
properly adjusted by a professional bicycle mechanic.
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brake application and rider weight shifts. See paragraph B.6 above and Section 4.F.
Practice shifting the gears (see Section 4.D). Remember to never move the shifter while
pedaling backward, nor pedal backwards immediately after having moved the shifter. This
could jam the chain and cause serious damage to the bicycle.
Check out the handling and response of the bike; and check the comfort.
If you have any questions, or if you feel anything about the bike is not as it should be,
consult your dealer before you ride again.
2. Safety
A. The Basics
WARNING: The area in which you ride may require specific safety devices. It is your
responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the area where you ride and to
comply with all applicable laws, including properly equipping yourself and your bike as the
law requires.
Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations. Observe regulations about bicycle
lighting, licensing of bicycles, riding on sidewalks, laws regulating bike path and trail use,
helmet laws, child carrier laws, special bicycle trac laws. It’s your responsibility to know
and obey the laws.
1. Always wear a cycling helmet which meets the latest certification standards and is
appropriate for the type of riding you do. Always follow the helmet manufacturer’s
instructions for fit, use and care of your helmet. Most serious bicycle injuries involve head
injuries which might have been avoided if the rider had worn an appropriate helmet.
WARNING: Failure to wear a helmet when riding may result in serious injury or
death.
2. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C) before you get on a bike.
3. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle: brakes (Section 4.C.); pedals
(Section 4.E.); shifting (Section 4.D.)
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4. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects away from the sharp teeth of
chainrings, the moving chain, the turning pedals and cranks, and the spinning wheels of your
bicycle.
5. Always wear:
• Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the pedals. Make sure that shoe laces
cannot get into moving parts, and never ride barefoot or in sandals.
• Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it can be tangled in the bicycle or
snagged by objects at the side of the road or trail.
• Protective eyewear, to protect against airborne dirt, dust and bugs — tinted when the
sun is bright, clear when it’s not.
6. Don’t jump with your bike. Jumping a bike, particularly a BMX or mountain bike, can
be fun; but it can put huge and unpredictable stress on the bicycle and its components.
Riders who insist on jumping their bikes risk serious damage, to their bicycles as well as to
themselves. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with your bike, read and
understand Section 2.F.
7. Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions. Higher speed means higher risk.
B. Riding Safety
1. Obey all Rules of the Road and all local trac laws.
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others — motorists, pedestrians and other
cyclists. Respect their rights.
3. Ride defensively. Always assume that others do not see you.
4. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid:
• Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road or your lane ahead of you, or coming up
behind you.
• Parked car doors opening.
• Pedestrians stepping out.
• Children or pets playing near the road.
• Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion joints, road or sidewalk construction,
debris and other obstructions that could cause you to swerve into trac, catch your wheel or
cause you to have an accident.
• The many other hazards and distractions which can occur on a bicycle ride.
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5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths or as close to the edge of the
road as possible, in the direction of trac flow or as directed by local governing laws.
6. Stop at stop signs and trac lights; slow down and look both ways at street
intersections. Remember that a bicycle always loses in a collision with a motor vehicle, so be
prepared to yield even if you have the right of way.
7. Use approved hand signals for turning and stopping.
8. Never ride with headphones. They mask trac sounds and emergency vehicle sirens,
distract you from concentrating on what’s going on around you, and their wires can tangle in
the moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose control.
9. Never carry a passenger, unless it is a small child wearing an approved helmet and
secured in a correctly mounted child carrier or a child-carrying trailer.
10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision or your complete control of the
bicycle, or which could become entangled in the moving parts of the bicycle.
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.
12. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you intend to do stunts, wheelies, jumps or
go racing with your bike despite our advice not to, read Section 2.F, Downhill, Stunt or
Competition Biking, . Think carefully about your skills before deciding to take the large now
risks that go with this kind of riding.
13. Don’t weave through trac or make any moves that may surprise people with whom
you are sharing the road.
14. Observe and yield the right of way.
15. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is obscured, at dawn, dusk or in
the dark, or when extremely tired. Each of these conditions increases the risk of accident.
C. O Road Safety
We recommend that children not ride on rough terrain unless they are accompanied by an
adult.
1. The variable conditions and hazards of o-road riding require close attention and
specific skills. Start slowly on easier terrain and build up your skills. If your bike has
suspension, the increased speed you may develop also increases your risk of losing control
and falling. Get to know how to handle your bike safely before trying increased speed or
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more dicult terrain.
2. Wear safety gear appropriate to the kind of riding you plan to do.
3. Don’t ride alone in remote areas. Even when riding with others, make sure that someone
knows where you’re going and when you expect to be back.
4. Always take along some kind of identification, so that people know who you are in case
of an accident; and take along some cash for food, a cool drink or an emergency phone call.
5. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in a way that does not frighten or
endanger them, and give them enough room so that their unexpected moves don’t endanger
you.
6. Be prepared. If something goes wrong while you’re riding o-road, help may not be
close.
7. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with your bike, read and understand
Section 2.F.
O Road respect
Obey the local laws regulating where and how you can ride o-road, and respect private
property. You may be sharing the trail with others — hikers, equestrians, other cyclists.
Respect their rights. Stay on the designated trail. Don’t contribute to erosion by riding in
mud or with unnecessary sliding. Don’t disturb the ecosystem by cutting your own trail or
shortcut through vegetation or streams. It is your responsibility to minimize your impact
on the environment. Leave things as you found them; and always take out everything you
brought in.
D. Wet Weather Riding
WARNING: Wet weather impairs traction, braking and visibility, both for the bicyclist
and for other vehicles sharing the road. The risk of an accident is dramatically
increased in wet conditions.
Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your brakes (as well as the brakes of other
vehicles sharing the road) is dramatically reduced and your tires don’t grip nearly as well.
This makes it harder to control speed and easier to lose control. To make sure that you can
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slow down and stop safely in wet conditions, ride more slowly and apply your brakes earlier
and more gradually than you would under normal, dry conditions. See also Section 4.C.
E. Night Riding
Riding a bicycle at night is more dangerous than riding during the day. A bicyclist much
is very dicult for motorists and pedestrians to see. Therefore, children should never ride at
dawn, at dusk or at night. Adults who chose to accept the greatly increased risk of riding
at dawn, at dusk or at night need to take extra care both riding and choosing specialized
equipment which helps reduce that risk. Consult your dealer about night riding safety
equipment.
WARNING: Reflectors are not a substitute for required lights. Riding at dawn, at
dusk, at night or at other times of poor visibility without an adequate bicycle
lighting system and without reflectors is dangerous and may result in serious injury
or death.
Bicycle reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect car lights and street lights in a way
that may help you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.
CAUTION: Check reflectors and their mounting brackets regularly to make sure that
they are clean, straight, unbroken and securely mounted. Have your dealer replace
damaged reflectors and straighten or tighten any that are bent or loose.
The mounting brackets of front and rear reflectors are often designed as brake straddle
cable safety catches which prevent the straddle cable from catching on the tire tread if the
cable jumps out of its yoke or breaks.
WARNING: Do not remove the front or rear reflectors or reflector brackets from your
bicycle. They are an integral part of the bicycle’s safety system.
Removing the reflectors reduces your visibility to others using the roadway. Being
struck by other vehicles may result in serious injury or death.
The reflector brackets may protect you from a brake straddle cable catching on the tire
in the event of brake cable failure. If a brake straddle cable catches on the tire, it can cause
the wheel to stop suddenly, causing you to loose control and fall.
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If you choose to ride under conditions of poor visibility, check and be sure you comply
with all local laws about night riding, and take the following strongly recommended
additional precautions:
• Purchase and install battery or generator powered head and tail lights which meet all
regulatory requirements and provide adequate visibility.
• Wear light colored, reflective clothing and accessories, such as a reflective vest, reflective
arm and leg bands, reflective stripes on your helmet, flashing lights attached to your body
and/or your bicycle ... any reflective device or light source that moves will help you get the
attention of approaching motorists, pedestrians and other trac.
• Make sure your clothing or anything you may be carrying on the bicycle does not
obstruct a reflector or light.
• Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly positioned and securely mounted
reflectors.
While riding at dawn, at dusk or at night:
• Ride slowly.
• Avoid dark areas and areas of heavy or fast-moving trac.
• Avoid road hazards.
• If possible, ride on familiar routes.
If riding in trac:
• Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see you and predict your movements.
• Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the unexpected.
• If you plan to ride in trac often, ask your dealer about trac safety classes or a good
book on bicycle trac safety.
F. Extreme, stunt or competition riding
Whether you call it Aggro, Hucking, Freeride, North Shore, Downhill, Jumping, Stunt Riding,
Racing or something else: if you engage in this sort of extreme, aggressive riding you will get
hurt, and you voluntarily assume a greatly increased risk of injury or death.
Not all bicycles are designed for these types of riding, and those that are may not
be suitable for all types of aggressive riding. Check with your dealer or the bicycle’s
manufacturer about the suitability of your bicycle before engaging in extreme riding.
When riding fast down hill, you can reach speeds achieved by motorcycles, and therefore
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face similar hazards and risks. Have your bicycle and equipment carefully inspected by a
qualified mechanic and be sure it is in perfect condition. Consult with expert riders, area site
personnel and race ocials on conditions and equipment advisable at the site where you
plan to ride. Wear appropriate safety gear, including an approved full face helmet, full finger
gloves, and body armor. Ultimately, it is your responsibility to have proper equipment and to
be familiar with course conditions.
WARNING: Although many catalogs, advertisements and articles about bicycling
depict riders engaged in extreme riding, this activity is extremely dangerous,
increases your risk of injury or death, and increases the severity of any injury.
Remember that the action depicted is being performed by professionals with many years
of training and experience. Know your limits and always wear a helmet and other
appropriate safety gear. Even with state-of-the-art protective safety gear, you could be
seriously injured or killed when jumping, stunt riding, riding downhill at speed or in
competition.
WARNING: Bicycles and bicycle parts have limitations with regard to strength and
integrity, and this type of riding can exceed those limitations.
We recommend against this type of riding because of the increased risks; but if you
choose to take the risk, at least:
• Take lessons from a competent instructor first
• Start with easy learning exercises and slowly develop your skills before trying more
dicult or dangerous riding
• Use only designated areas for stunts, jumping, racing or fast downhill riding
• Wear a full face helmet, safety pads and other safety gear
• Understand and recognize that the stresses imposed on your bike by this kind of activity
may break or damage parts of the bicycle and void the warranty
• Take your bicycle to your dealer if anything breaks or bends. Do not ride your bicycle
when any part is damaged.
If you ride downhill at speed, do stunt riding or ride in competition, know the limits of your
skill and experience. Ultimately, avoiding injury is your responsibility.
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G. Changing Components or Adding Accessories
There are many components and accessories available to enhance the comfort,
performance and appearance of your bicycle. However, if you change components or add
accessories, you do so at your own risk. The bicycle’s manufacturer may not have tested
that component or accessory for compatibility, reliability or safety on your bicycle. Before
installing any component or accessory, including a dierent size tire, make sure that it is
compatible with your bicycle by checking with your dealer. Be sure to read, understand and
follow the instructions that accompany the products you purchase for your bicycle. See also
Appendix A, p. 35 and B, p. 41.
WARNING: Failure to confirm compatibility, properly install, operate and maintain
any component or accessory can result in serious injury or death.
WARNING: Changing the components on your bike with other than genuine
replacement parts may compromise the safety of your bicycle and may void the
warranty. Check with your dealer before changing the components on your bike.
3. Fit
NOTE: Correct fit is an essential element of bicycling safety, performance and comfort.
Making the adjustments to your bicycle which result in correct fit for your body and riding
conditions requires experience, skill and special tools. Always have your dealer make
the adjustments on your bicycle; or, if you have the experience, skill and tools, have your
dealer check your work before riding.
WARNING: If your bicycle does not fit properly, you may lose control and fall. If your
new bike doesn’t fit, ask your dealer to exchange it before you ride it.
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A. Standover height
1. Diamond frame bicycles
Standover height is the basic element of bike fit (see ). It is the distance from the ground
to the top of the bicycle’s frame at that point where your crotch is when straddling the bike.
To check for correct standover height, straddle the bike while wearing the kind of shoes in
which you’ll be riding, and bounce vigorously on your heels. If your crotch touches the frame,
the bike is too big for you. Don’t even ride the bike around the block. A bike which you ride
only on paved surfaces and never take o-road should give you a minimum standover height
clearance of two inches (5 cm). A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved surfaces should give you
a minimum of three inches (7.5 cm) of standover height clearance. And a bike that you’ll use
o road should give you four inches (10 cm) or more of clearance.
2. Step-through frame bicycles
Standover height does not apply to bicycles with step-through frames. Instead, the
limiting dimension is determined by saddle height range. You must be able to adjust your
saddle position as described in without exceeding the limits set by the height of the top of B
the seat tube and the ”Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark on the seat post.
B. Saddle position
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting the most performance and
comfort from your bicycle. If the saddle position is not comfortable for you, see your dealer.
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1. Up and down adjustment. To check for correct saddle height (fig. 3):
• sit on the saddle;
• place one heel on a pedal;
• rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel on it is in the down position and the crank
arm is parallel to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight, your saddle height needs to be adjusted. If your hips
must rock for the heel to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg is bent at the
knee with your heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low.
Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding position and to show you how to
make this adjustment. If you choose to make your own saddle height adjustment:
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loosen the seat post clamp
raise or lower the seat post in the seat tube
make sure the saddle is straight fore and aftre-tighten the seat post clamp to the
recommended torque (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s instructions).
Once the saddle is at the correct height, make sure that the seat post does not project
from the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark (fig. 4).
NOTE: Some bicycles have a sight hole in the seat tube, the purpose of which is to make
it easy to see whether the seat post is inserted in the seat tube far enough to be safe. If
your bicycle has such a sight hole, use it instead of the “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
Extension” mark to make sure the seat post is inserted in the seat tube far enough to be
visible through the sight hole.
If your bike has an interrupted seat tube, as is the case on some suspension bikes, you
must also make sure that the seat post is far enough into the frame so that you can touch it
through the bottom of the interrupted seat tube with the tip of your finger without inserting
your finger beyond its first knuckle. Also see NOTE above and fig. 5).
WARNING: If your seat post is not inserted in the seat tube as described in B.1 above,
the seat post may break, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
2. Front and back adjustment. The saddle can be adjusted forward or back to help you
get the optimal position on the bike. Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding
position and to show you how to make this adjustment. If you choose to make your own
front and back adjustment, make sure that the clamp mechanism is clamping on the straight
part of the saddle rails and is not touching the curved part of the rails, and that you are using
the recommended torque on the clamping fastener(s) (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s
instructions).
3. Saddle angle adjustment. Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some riders
like the saddle nose angled up or down just a little. Your dealer can adjust saddle angle or
teach you how to do it. If you choose to make your own saddle angle adjustment and you
have a single bolt saddle clamp on your seat post, it is critical that you loosen the clamp
bolt suciently to allow any serrations on the mechanism to disengage before changing the
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saddle’s angle, and then that the serrations fully re-engage before you tighten the clamp bolt
to the recommended torque (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s instructions).
WARNING: When making saddle angle adjustments with a single bolt saddle clamp,
always check to make sure that the serrations on the mating surfaces of the clamp
are not worn. Worn serrations on the clamp can allow the saddle to move, causing
you to lose control and fall.
Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are too tight can stretch and
deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden
failure of the bolt, causing you to lose control and fall.
Note: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension seat post, the suspension mechanism
may require periodic service or maintenance. Ask your dealer for recommended service
intervals for your suspension seat post.
Small changes in saddle position can have a substantial eect on performance and
comfort. To find your best saddle position, make only one adjustment at a time.
WARNING: After any saddle adjustment, be sure that the saddle adjusting
mechanism is properly seated and tightened before riding. A loose saddle clamp or
seat post clamp can cause damage to the seat post, or can cause you to lose control
and fall. A correctly tightened saddle adjusting mechanism will allow no saddle movement
in any direction. Periodically check to make sure that the saddle adjusting mechanism is
properly tightened.
If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt and fore-and-aft position, your
saddle is still uncomfortable, you may need a dierent saddle design. Saddles, like people,
come in many dierent shapes, sizes and resilience. Your dealer can help you select a saddle
which, when correctly adjusted for your body and riding style, will be comfortable.
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WARNING: Some people have claimed that extended riding with a saddle which is
incorrectly adjusted or which does not support your pelvic area correctly can cause
short-term or long-term injury to nerves and blood vessels, or even impotence. If
your saddle causes you pain, numbness or other discomfort, listen to your body and stop
riding until you see your dealer about saddle adjustment or a dierent saddle.
C. Handlebar height and angle
Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless” stem, which clamps on to the outside of
the steerer tube, or with a “quill” stem, which clamps inside the steerer tube by way of an
expanding binder bolt. If you aren’t absolutely sure which type of stem your bike has, ask
your dealer.
If your bike has a “threadless” stem (fig. 6) your dealer may be able to change handlebar
height by moving height adjustment spacers from below the stem to above the stem, or vice
versa. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a stem of dierent length or rise. Consult your dealer. Do
not attempt to do this yourself, as it requires special knowledge.
If your bike has a “quill” stem (fig. 7) you can ask your dealer to adjust the handlebar
height a bit by adjusting stem height.
A quill stem has an etched or stamped mark on its shaft which designates the stem’s
“Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension”. This mark must not be visible above the
headset.
WARNING: A quill stem’s Minimum Insertion Mark must not be visible above the top
of the headset. If the stem is extended beyond the Minimum Insertion Mark the stem
may break or damage the fork’s steerer tube, which could cause you to lose control
and fall.
WARNING: On some bicycles, changing the stem or stem height can aect the
tension of the front brake cable, locking the front brake or creating excess cable
slack which can make the front brake inoperable. If the front brake pads move in
towards the wheel rim or out away from the wheel rim when the stem or stem height is
changed, the brakes must be correctly adjusted before you ride the bicycle.
Some bicycles are equipped with an adjustable angle stem. If your bicycle has an
adjustable angle stem, ask your dealer to show you how to adjust if. Do not attempt to
23
make the adjustment yourself, as changing stem angle may also require adjustments to the
bicycle’s controls.
WARNING: Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are too tight
can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue. Either
mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt, causing you to lose control and fall.
Your dealer can also change the angle of the handlebar or bar end extensions.
WARNING: An insuciently tightened stem clamp bolt, handlebar clamp bolt or bar
end extension clamping bolt may compromise steering action, which could cause
you to lose control and fall. Place the front wheel of the bicycle between your legs
and attempt to twist the handlebar/stem assembly. If you can twist the stem in relation to
the front wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to the stem, or turn the bar end extensions
in relation to the handlebar, the bolts are insuciently tightened.
D. Control position adjustments
The angle of the brake and shift control levers and their position on the handlebars
can be changed. Ask your dealer to make the adjustments for you. If you choose to make
your own control lever angle adjustment, be sure to re-tighten the clamp fasteners to the
recommended torque (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s instructions).
E. Brake reach
Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted for reach. If you have small hands
or find it dicult to squeeze the brake levers, your dealer can either adjust the reach or fit
shorter reach brake levers.
WARNING: The shorter the brake lever reach, the more critical it is to have correctly
adjusted brakes, so that full braking power can be applied within available brake
lever travel. Brake lever travel insucient to apply full braking power can result in
loss of control, which may result in serious injury or death.
24
4. Tech
It’s important to your safety, performance and enjoyment to understand how things
work on your bicycle. We urge you to ask your dealer how to do the things described in this
section before you attempt them yourself, and that you have your dealer check your work
before you ride the bike. If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand
something in this section of the Manual, talk to your dealer. See also Appendix A, B, C and D.
A. Wheels
Bicycle wheels are designed to be removable for easier transportation and for repair of
a tire puncture. In most cases, the wheel axles are inserted into slots, called “dropouts” in
the fork and frame, but some suspension mountain bikes use what is called a “through axle”
wheel mounting system.
If you have a mountain bike equipped with through axle front or rear wheels, make sure
that your dealer has given you the manufacturer’s instructions, and follow those when
installing or removing a through axle wheel. If you don’t know what a through axle is, ask
your dealer.
Wheels are secured in one of three ways:
• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running through it which has an adjustable tension
nut on one end and an over-center cam on the other (cam action system, fig.8 a & b)
• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running through it which has a nut on one end and
a fitting for a hex key, lock lever or other tightening device on the other (through bolt, fig. 9)
• Hex nuts or hex key bolts which are threaded on to or into the hub axle (bolt-on wheel,
fig. 10)
Your bicycle may be equipped with a dierent securing method for the front wheel than for
the rear wheel. Discuss the wheel securing method for your bicycle with your dealer.
It is very important that you understand the type of wheel securing method on your
bicycle, that you know how to secure the wheels correctly, and that you know how to
25
apply the correct clamping force that safely secures the wheel. Ask your dealer to instruct
you in correct wheel removal and installation, and ask him to give you any available
manufacturer’s instructions.
WARNING: Riding with an improperly secured wheel can allow the wheel to wobble
or fall o the bicycle, which can cause serious injury or death. Therefore, it is
essential that you:
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to install and remove your
wheels safely.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your wheel in place.
3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check that the wheel is securely clamped.
The clamping action of a correctly secured wheel must emboss the surfaces of the
dropouts.
1. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices
Most bicycles have front forks which utilize a secondary wheel retention device to reduce
the risk of the wheel disengaging from the fork if the wheel is incorrectly secured. Secondary
retention devices are not a substitute for correctly securing your front wheel.
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:
a. The clip-on type is a part which the manufacturer adds to the front wheel hub or front
fork.
b. The integral type is molded, cast or machined into the outer faces of the front fork
dropouts.
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary retention device on your bike.
WARNING: Do not remove or disable the secondary retention device. As its name
implies, it serves as a back-up for a critical adjustment. If the wheel is not secured
correctly, the secondary retention device can reduce the risk of the wheel
disengaging from the fork. Removing or disabling the secondary retention device may also
void the warranty.
Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correctly securing your wheel.
Failure to properly secure the wheel can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage, which
could cause you to loose control and fall, resulting in serious injury or death.
26
2. Wheels with cam action systems
There are currently two types of over-center cam wheel retention mechanisms: the
traditional over-center cam (fig. 8a) and the cam-and-cup system (fig. 8b). Both use an over-
center cam action to clamp the bike’s wheel in place. Your bicycle may have a cam-and-cup
front wheel retention system and a traditional rear wheel cam action system.
a. Adjusting the traditional cam action mechanism (fig. 8a)
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the over-center cam pushing against
one dropout and pulling the tension adjusting nut, by way of the skewer, against the other
dropout. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning
the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases
clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating
reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the
dierence between safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
WARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the wheel securely.
Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever like a wing nut with the other
hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp a cam action wheel
safely in the dropouts. See also the first WARNING in this Section, p. 18.
b. Adjusting the cam-and-cup mechanism (fig. 8b)
The cam-and-cup system on your front wheel will have been correctly adjusted for your
bicycle by your dealer. Ask your dealer to check the adjustment every six months. Do not
use a cam-and-cup front wheel on any bicycle other than the one for which your dealer
adjusted it.
3. Removing and Installing wheels
WARNING: If your bike is equipped with a hub brake such as a rear coaster brake,
front or rear drum, band or roller brake; or if it has an internal gear rear hub, do not
attempt to remove the wheel. The removal and re-installation of most hub brakes and
internal gear hubs requires special knowledge. Incorrect removal or assembly can result in
brake or gear failure, which can cause you to lose control and fall.
27
CAUTION: If your bike has a disc brake, exercise care in touching the rotor or caliper. Disc
rotors have sharp edges, and both rotor and caliper can get very hot during use.
a. Removing a disk brake or rim brake Front Wheel
(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase
the clearance between the tire and the brake pads (See Section 4.C fig. 11 through 15).
(2) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention, move the cam lever from the locked
or CLOSED position to the OPEN position (figs. 8a & b). If your bike has through bolt or
bolt-on front wheel retention, loosen the fastener(s) a few turns counter-clockwise using an
appropriate wrench, lock key or the integral lever.
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it and go to
step (4). If your front fork has an integral secondary retention device, and a traditional cam
action system (fig. 8a) loosen the tension adjusting nut enough to allow removing the wheel
from the dropouts. If your front wheel uses a cam-and-cup system, (fig. 8b) squeeze the cup
and cam lever together while removing the wheel. No rotation of any part is necessary with
the cam-and-cup system.
You may need to tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand to release the
wheel from the front fork.
b. Installing a disk brake or rim brake Front Wheel
CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with a front disk brake, be careful not to damage
the disk, caliper or brake pads when re-inserting the disk into the caliper. Never
activate a disk brake’s control lever unless the disk is correctly inserted in the
caliper. See also Section 4.C.
(1) If your bike has cam action front wheel retention, move the cam lever so that it curves
away from the wheel (fig. 8b). This is the OPEN position. If your bike has through bolt or
bolt-on front wheel retention, go to the next step.
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades so that
the axle seats firmly at the top of the fork dropouts. The cam lever, if there is one, should
be on rider’s left side of the bicycle (fig. 8a & b). If your bike has a clip-on type secondary
retention device, engage it.
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(3) If you have a traditional cam action mechanism: holding the cam lever in the ADJUST
position with your right hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with your left hand until
it is finger tight against the fork dropout (fig. 8a). If you have a cam-and-cup system: the
nut and cup (fig. 8b) will have snapped into the recessed area of the fork dropouts and no
adjustment should be required.
(4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, and at the
same time centering the wheel rim in the fork:
(a) With a cam action system, move the cam lever upwards and swing it into the
CLOSED position (fig. 8a & b). The lever should now be parallel to the fork blade and curved
toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping force, you should have to wrap your fingers
around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever should leave a clear imprint in the palm of
your hand.
(b) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torque
specifications in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever cannot be pushed all the way to
a position parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the
tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening the lever again.
D (6) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torque
specifications in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel with a cam action retention device takes
considerable force. If you can fully close the cam lever without wrapping your
fingers around the fork blade for leverage, the lever does not leave a clear imprint in
the palm of your hand, and the serrations on the wheel fastener do not emboss the surfaces
of the dropouts, the tension is insucient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut
clockwise a quarter turn; then try again. See also the first WARNING in this Section, p. 18.
(6) If you disengaged the brake quick-release mechanism in 3. a. (1) above, re-engage it to
restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
(7) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake pads;
then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes are operating correctly.
29
c. Removing a disk brake or rim brake Rear Wheel
(1) If you have a multi-speed bike with a derailleur gear system: shift the rear derailleur to
high gear (the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).
If you have an internal gear rear hub, consult your dealer or the hub manufacturer’s
instructions before attempting to remove the rear wheel.
If you have a single-speed bike with rim or disk brake, go to step (4) below.
(2) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase
the clearance between the wheel rim and the brake pads (see Section 4.C, figs. 11 through
15).
(3) On a derailleur gear system, pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(4) With a cam action mechanism, move the quick-release lever to the OPEN position (fig.
8b). With a through bolt or bolt on mechanism, loosen the fastener(s) with an appropriate
wrench, lock lever or integral lever; then push the wheel forward far enough to be able to
remove the chain from the rear sprocket.
(5) Lift the rear wheel o the ground a few inches and remove it from the rear dropouts.
d. Installing a disk brake or rim brake Rear Wheel
CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with a rear disk brake, be careful not to damage
the disk, caliper or brake pads when re-inserting the disk into the caliper. Never
activate a disk brake’s control lever unless the disk is correctly inserted in the
caliper.
(1) With a cam action system, move the cam lever to the OPEN position (see fig. 8 a & b).
The lever should be on the side of the wheel opposite the derailleur and freewheel sprockets.
(2) On a derailleur bike, make sure that the rear derailleur is still in its outermost, high
gear, position; then pull the derailleur body back with your right hand. Put the chain on top
of the smallest freewheel sprocket.
(3) On single-speed, remove the chain from the front sprocket, so that you have plenty of
slack in the chain. Put the chain on the rear wheel sprocket.
(4) Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way in to the
dropouts.
(5) On a single speed or an internal gear hub, replace the chain on the chainring; pull the
30
wheel back in the dropouts so that it is straight in the frame and the chain has about 1/4
inches of up-and-down play.
(6) With a cam action system, move the cam lever upwards and swing it into the CLOSED
position (fig. 8 a & b). The lever should now be parallel to the seat stay or chain stay and
curved toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping force, you should have to wrap your
fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever should leave a clear imprint in the
palm of your hand.
(7) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torque
specifications in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a
position parallel to the seat stay or chain stay, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then
turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening the lever
again.
WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel with a cam action retention device takes
considerable force. If you can fully close the cam lever without wrapping your
fingers around the seat stay or chain stay for leverage, the lever does not leave a
clear imprint in the palm of your hand, and the serrations on the wheel fastener do not
emboss the surfaces of the dropouts, the tension is insucient. Open the lever; turn the
tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again. See also the first WARNING
in this Section, p. 18.
(8) If you disengaged the brake quick-release mechanism in 3. c. (2) above, re-engage it
to restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
(9) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake pads;
then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes are operating correctly.
B. Seat post cam action clamp
Some bikes are equipped with a cam action seat post binder. The seat post cam action
binder works exactly like the traditional wheel cam action fastener (Section 4.A.2) While a
cam action binder looks like a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the other, the
31
binder uses an over-center cam action to firmly clamp the seat post (see fig. 8a).
WARNING: Riding with an improperly tightened seat post can allow the saddle to
turn or move and cause you to lose control and fall. Therefore:
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to correctly clamp your
seat post.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your seat post.
3. Before you ride the bike, first check that the seat post is securely clamped.
Adjusting the seat post cam action mechanism
The action of the cam squeezes the seat collar around the seat post to hold the seat
post securely in place. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting
nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating
increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from
rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make
the dierence between safe and unsafe clamping force.
WARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the seat post securely.
Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever like a wing nut with the other
hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp the seat post safely.
WARNING: If you can fully close the cam lever without wrapping your fingers around
the seat post or a frame tube for leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear
imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insucient. Open the lever; turn the
tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
C. Brakes
There are three general types of bicycle brakes: rim brakes, which operate by squeezing
the wheel rim between two brake pads; disc brakes, which operate by squeezing a hub-
mounted disc between two brake pads; and internal hub brakes. All three can be operated
32
by way of a handlebar mounted lever. On some models of bicycle, the internal hub brake is
operated by pedaling backwards. This is called a Coaster Brake and is described in Appendix
C.
WARNING:
1. Riding with improperly adjusted brakes, worn brake pads, or wheels on which the
rim wear mark is visible is dangerous and can result in serious injury or death.
2. Applying brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock up a wheel, which could cause you
to lose control and fall. Sudden or excessive application of the front brake may pitch the
rider over the handlebars, which may result in serious injury or death.
3. Some bicycle brakes, such as disc brakes (fig. 11) and linear-pull brakes (fig. 12), are
extremely powerful. Take extra care in becoming familiar with these brakes and exercise
particular care when using them.
4. Some bicycle brakes are equipped with a brake force modulator, a small, cylindrical
device through which the brake control cable runs and which is designed to provide a
more progressive application of braking force. A modulator makes the initial brake lever
force more gentle, progressively increasing force until full force is achieved. If your bike
is equipped with a brake force modulator, take extra care in becoming familiar with its
performance characteristics.
5. Disc brakes can get extremely hot with extended use. Be careful not to touch a disc
brake until it has had plenty of time to cool.
6. See the brake manufacturer’s instructions for operation and care of your brakes, and
for when brake pads must be replaced. If you do not have the manufacturer’s instructions,
see your dealer or contact the brake manufacturer.
7. If replacing worn or damaged parts, use only manufacturer-approved genuine
replacement parts.
1. Brake controls and features
It’s very important to your safety that you learn and remember which brake lever controls
which brake on your bike. Traditionally, the right brake lever controls the rear brake and the
left brake lever controls the front brake; but, to make sure your bike’s brakes are set up this
33
way, squeeze one brake lever and look to see which brake, front or rear, engages. Now do the
same with the other brake lever.
Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brake levers comfortably. If your
hands are too small to operate the levers comfortably, consult your dealer before riding the
bike. The lever reach may be adjustable; or you may need a dierent brake lever design.
Most rim brakes have some form of quick-release mechanism to allow the brake pads to
clear the tire when a wheel is removed or reinstalled. When the brake quick release is in the
open position, the brakes are inoperative. Ask your dealer to make sure that you understand
the way the brake quick release works on your bike (see figs. 12, 13. 14 & 15) and check each
time to make sure both brakes work correctly before you get on the bike.
2. How brakes work
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the braking surfaces.
To make sure that you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims and brake
pads or the disk rotor and caliper clean and free of dirt, lubricants, waxes or polishes.
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum braking
force for each wheel occurs at the point just before the wheel “locks up” (stops rotating)
and starts to skid. Once the tire skids, you actually lose most of your stopping force and all
directional control. You need to practice slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up
a wheel. The technique is called progressive brake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake
lever to the position where you think you’ll generate appropriate braking force, squeeze
the lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up,
release pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup. It’s important to
develop a feel for the amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at dierent
speeds and on dierent surfaces. To better understand this, experiment a little by walking
your bike and applying dierent amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel
locks.
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body wants to
continue at the speed at which it was going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front
wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which could send you flying
over the handlebars).
A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before lockup; a wheel
with less weight will lock up with less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes and your
34
weight is transferred forward, you need to shift your body toward the rear of the bike, to
transfer weight back on to the rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both decrease
rear braking and increase front braking force. This is even more important on descents,
because descents shift weight forward.
Two keys to eective speed control and safe stopping are controlling wheel lockup
and weight transfer. This weight transfer is even more pronounced if your bike has a front
suspension fork. Front suspension “dips” under braking, increasing the weight transfer (see
also Section 4.F). Practice braking and weight transfer techniques where there is no trac or
other hazards and distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. It will take longer
to stop on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have less
cornering and braking traction and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the
brake pads reduces their ability to grip. The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces
is to go more slowly.
CAUTION: Some bicycles are equipped with a device called a Brake Rotor, which allows the
steering mechanism to turn a full 360 degrees. Adjusting brakes equipped with a Brake Ro-
tor requires special knowledge and skill. Do not attempt to adjust the front brake of a bicycle
equipped with a Brake Rotor. Take the bicycle to a dealer for service and adjustment of the
brakes. A rotor may also decrease the clearance between the front wheel and the pedals
when the wheel is turned backwards.
D. Shifting gears
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain (see 1. below), an internal gear
hub drivetrain (see 2. below) or, in some special cases, a combination of the two.
1. How a derailleur drivetrain works
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing mechanism will have:
• a rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster
• a rear derailleur
• usually a front derailleur
• one or two shifters
35
• one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings
• a drive chain
a. Shifting Gears
There are several dierent types and styles of shifting controls: levers, twist grips, triggers,
combination shift/brake controls and push-buttons. Ask your dealer to explain the type of
shifting controls that are on your bike, and to show you how they work.
The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. A downshift is a shift to a “lower”
or “slower” gear, one which is easier to pedal. An upshift is a shift to a “higher” or “faster”,
harder to pedal gear. What’s confusing is that what’s happening at the front derailleur is
the opposite of what’s happening at the rear derailleur (for details, read the instructions on
Shifting the Rear Derailleur and Shifting the Front Derailleur below). For example, you can
select a gear which will make pedaling easier on a hill (make a downshift) in one of two
ways: shift the chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear at the front, or up the gear
“steps” to a larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what is called a downshift
looks like an upshift. The way to keep things straight is to remember that shifting the chain in
towards the centerline of the bike is for accelerating and climbing and is called a downshift.
Moving the chain out or away from the centerline of the bike is for speed and is called an
upshift.
Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design requires that the
drive chain be moving forward and be under at least some tension. A derailleur will shift only
if you are pedaling forward.
CAUTION: Never move the shifter while pedaling backward, nor pedal backwards
immediately after having moved the shifter. This could jam the chain and cause
serious damage to the bicycle.
b. Shifting the Rear Derailleur
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter.
The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear sprocket to
another. The smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher gear ratios. Pedaling
in the higher gears requires greater pedaling eort, but takes you a greater distance with
each revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger sprockets produce lower gear ratios. Using
36
them requires less pedaling eort, but takes you a shorter distance with each pedal crank
revolution. Moving the chain from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprocket
results in a downshift. Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprocket results
in an upshift. In order for the derailleur to move the chain from one sprocket to another, the
rider must be pedaling forward.
c. Shifting the Front Derailleur:
The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts the chain between the
larger and smaller chainrings. Shifting the chain onto a smaller chainring makes pedaling
easier (a downshift). Shifting to a larger chainring makes pedaling harder (an upshift).
d. Which gear should I be in?
The combination of largest rear and smallest front gears (fig. 16) is for the steepest hills.
The smallest rear and largest front combination is for the greatest speed. It is not necessary
to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” which is right for your level of
ability — a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you
start from a stop without wobbling — and experiment with upshifting and downshifting to
get a feel for the dierent gear combinations. At first, practice shifting where there are no
obstacles, hazards or other trac, until you’ve built up your confidence. Learn to anticipate
the need to shift, and shift to a lower gear the hill gets too steep. If you have before
diculties with shifting, the problem could be mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for
help.
WARNING: Never shift a derailleur onto the largest or the smallest sprocket if the
derailleur is not shifting smoothly. The derailleur may be out of adjustment and the
chain could jam, causing you to lose control and fall.
e. What if it won’t shift gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift to the next
gear chances are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the bike to your dealer to
have it adjusted.
37
2. How an internal gear hub drivetrain works
If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing mechanism will
consist of:
• a 3, 5, 7, 8, 12 speed or possibly an infinitely variable internal gear hub
• one, or sometimes two shifters
• one or two control cables
• one front sprocket called a chainring
• a drive chain
a. Shifting internal gear hub gears
Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving the shifter to the
indicated position for the desired gear ratio. After you have moved the shifter to the gear
position of your choice, ease the pressure on the pedals for an instant to allow the hub to
complete the shift.
b. Which gear should I be in?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically largest gear is for
the greatest speed.
Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3) is
called an upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to an easier, “slower” gear is called a
downshift. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” for
the conditions — a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let
you start from a stop without wobbling — and experiment with upshifting and downshifting
to get a feel for the dierent gears. At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles,
hazards or other trac, until you’ve built up your confidence. Learn to anticipate the need
to shift, and shift to a lower gear the hill gets too steep. If you have diculties with before
shifting, the problem could be mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for help.
c. What if it won’t shift gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift to the next
gear chances are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the bike to your dealer to
have it adjusted.
38
E. Pedals
1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front wheel when you turn the handlebars to
steer while a pedal is in the forwardmost position. This is common on small-framed bicycles,
and is avoided by keeping the inside pedal up and the outside pedal down when making
sharp turns. On any bicycle, this technique will also prevent the inside pedal from striking the
ground in a turn.
WARNING: Toe Overlap could cause you to lose control and fall. Ask your dealer to
help you determine if the combination of frame size, crank arm length, pedal design
and shoes you will use results in pedal overlap. Whether you have overlap or not,
you must keep the inside pedal up and the outside pedal down when making sharp turns.
2. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that have sharp and potentially dangerous
surfaces. These surfaces are designed to add safety by increasing grip between the rider’s
shoe and the pedal. If your bicycle has this type of high-performance pedal, you must take
extra care to avoid serious injury from the pedals’ sharp surfaces. Based on your riding style
or skill level, you may prefer a less aggressive pedal design, or chose to ride with shin pads.
Your dealer can show you a number of options and make suitable recommendations.
3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet correctly positioned and engaged
with the pedals. The toeclip positions the ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, which
gives maximum pedaling power. The toe strap, when tightened, keeps the foot engaged
throughout the rotation cycle of the pedal. While toeclips and straps give some benefit
with any kind of shoe, they work most eectively with cycling shoes designed for use with
toeclips. Your dealer can explain how toeclips and straps work. Shoes with deep treaded
soles or welts which might make it more dicult for you to insert or remove your foot should
not be used with toeclips and straps.
WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips and straps requires skill
which can only be acquired with practice. Until it becomes a reflex action, the
technique requires concentration which can distract your attention and cause you to
39
lose control and fall. Practice the use of toeclips and straps where there are no obstacles,
hazards or trac. Keep the straps loose, and don’t tighten them until your technique and
confidence in getting in and out of the pedals warrants it. Never ride in trac with your toe
straps tight.
4. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) are another means to keep feet
securely in the correct position for maximum pedaling eciency. They have a plate, called a
“cleat,” on the sole of the shoe, which clicks into a mating spring-loaded fixture on the pedal.
They only engage or disengage with a very specific motion which must be practiced until it
becomes instinctive. Clipless pedals require shoes and cleats which are compatible with the
make and model pedal being used.
Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to adjust the amount of force needed
to engage or disengage the foot. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s instructions, or ask your
dealer to show you how to make this adjustment. Use the easiest setting until engaging and
disengaging becomes a reflex action, but always make sure that there is sucient tension to
prevent unintended release of your foot from the pedal.
WARNING: Clipless pedals are intended for use with shoes specifically made to fit
them and are designed to firmly keep the foot engaged with the pedal. Do not use
shoes which do not engage the pedals correctly.
Practice is required to learn to engage and disengage the foot safely. Until engaging and
disengaging the foot becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which
can distract your attention and cause you to lose control and fall. Practice engaging and
disengaging clipless pedals in a place where there are no obstacles, hazards or trac; and
be sure to follow the pedal manufacturer’s setup and service instructions. If you do not have
the manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or contact the manufacturer.
F. Bicycle Suspension
Many bicycles are equipped with suspension systems. There are many dierent types of
suspension systems — too many to deal with individually in this Manual. If your bicycle has
a suspension system of any kind, be sure to read and follow the suspension manufacturer’s
40
setup and service instructions. If you do not have the manufacturer’s instructions, see your
dealer or contact the manufacturer.
WARNING: Failure to maintain, check and properly adjust the suspension system
may result in suspension malfunction, which may cause you to lose control and fall.
If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you may develop also increases your
risk of injury. For example, when braking, the front of a suspended bike dips. You could
lose control and fall if you do not have experience with this system. Learn to handle your
suspension system safely. See also Section 4.C.
WARNING: Changing suspension adjustment can change the handling and braking
characteristics of your bicycle. Never change suspension adjustment unless you are
thoroughly familiar with the suspension system manufacturer’s instructions and
recommendations, and always check for changes in the handling and braking
characteristics of the bicycle after a suspension adjustment by taking a careful test ride in a
hazard-free area.
Suspension can increase control and comfort by allowing the wheels to better follow the
terrain. This enhanced capability may allow you to ride faster; but you must not confuse the
enhanced capabilities of the bicycle with your own capabilities as a rider. Increasing your
skill will take time and practice. Proceed carefully until you have learned to handle the full
capabilities of your bike.
WARNING: Not all bicycles can be safely retrofitted with some types of suspension
systems. Before retrofitting a bicycle with any suspension, check with the bicycle’s
manufacturer to make sure that what you want to do is compatible with the bicycle’s
design. Failing to do so can result in catastrophic frame failure.
41
G. Tires and Tubes
1. Tires
Bicycle tires are available in many designs and specifications, ranging from general-
purpose designs to tires designed to perform best under very specific weather or terrain
conditions. If, once you’ve gained experience with your new bike, you feel that a dierent tire
might better suit your riding needs, your dealer can help you select the most appropriate
design.
The size, pressure rating, and on some high-performance tires the specific recommended
use, are marked on the sidewall of the tire (see fig. 17). The part of this information which is
most important to you is Tire Pressure.
WARNING: Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum pressure marked on the tire’s
sidewall. Exceeding the recommended maximum pressure may blow the tire o the
rim, which could cause damage to the bike and injury to the rider and bystanders.
The best and safest way to inflate a bicycle tire to the correct pressure is with a bicycle
pump which has a built-in pressure gauge.
WARNING: There is a safety risk in using gas station air hoses or other air
compressors. They are not made for bicycle tires. They move a large volume of air
very rapidly, and will raise the pressure in your tire very rapidly, which could cause
the tube to explode.
Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure range. How a tire
performs under dierent terrain or weather conditions depends largely on tire pressure.
Inflating the tire to near its maximum recommended pressure gives the lowest rolling
resistance; but also produces the harshest ride. High pressures work best on smooth, dry
pavement.
Very low pressures, at the bottom of the recommended pressure range, give the best
performance on smooth, slick terrain such as hard-packed clay, and on deep, loose surfaces
such as deep, dry sand.
Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and the riding conditions can cause a
42
puncture of the tube by allowing the tire to deform suciently to pinch the inner tube
between the rim and the riding surface.
CAUTION: Pencil type automotive tire gauges can be inaccurate and should not be
relied upon for consistent, accurate pressure readings. Instead, use a high quality
dial gauge.
Ask your dealer to recommend the best tire pressure for the kind of riding you will most
often do, and have the dealer inflate your tires to that pressure. Then, check inflation as
described in Section 1.C so you’ll know how correctly inflated tires should look and feel when
you don’t have access to a gauge. Some tires may need to be brought up to pressure every
week or two, so it is important to check your tire pressures before every ride.
Some special high-performance tires have unidirectional treads: their tread pattern
is designed to work better in one direction than in the other. The sidewall marking of a
unidirectional tire will have an arrow showing the correct rotation direction. If your bike has
unidirectional tires, be sure that they are mounted to rotate in the correct direction.
2. Tire Valves
There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves: The Schraeder Valve and the Presta
Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have the fitting appropriate to the valve stems on your
bicycle.
The Schraeder valve (fig. 18a) is like the valve on a car tire. To inflate a Schraeder valve
tube, remove the valve cap and clamp the pump fitting onto the end of the valve stem. To let
air out of a Schraeder valve, depress the pin in the end of the valve stem with the end of a
key or other appropriate object.
The Presta valve (fig. 18b) has a narrower diameter and is only found on bicycle tires.
To inflate a Presta valve tube using a Presta headed bicycle pump, remove the valve cap;
unscrew (counterclockwise) the valve stem lock nut; and push down on the valve stem to
free it up. Then push the pump head on to the valve head, and inflate. To inflate a Presta
valve with a Schraeder pump fitting, you’ll need a Presta adapter (available at your bike
shop) which screws on to the valve stem once you’ve freed up the valve. The adapter fits into
the Schraeder pump fitting. Close the valve after inflation. To let air out of a Presta valve,
open up the valve stem lock nut and depress the valve stem.
43
WARNING: We highly recommend that you carry a spare inner tube when you ride
your bike. Patching a tube is an emergency repair. If you do not apply the patch
correctly or apply several patches, the tube can fail, resulting in possible tube
failure, which could cause you to loose control and fall. Replace a patched tube as soon as
possible.
5. Service
WARNING: Technological advances have made bicycles and bicycle components
more complex, and the pace of innovation is increasing. It is impossible for this
manual to provide all the information required to properly repair and/or maintain
your bicycle. In order to help minimize the chances of an accident and possible injury, it is
critical that you have any repair or maintenance which is not specifically described in this
manual performed by your dealer. Equally important is that your individual maintenance
requirements will be determined by everything from your riding style to geographic
location. Consult your dealer for help in determining your maintenance requirements.
WARNING: Many bicycle service and repair tasks require special knowledge and
tools. Do not begin any adjustments or service on your bicycle until you have learned
from your dealer how to properly complete them. Improper adjustment or service
may result in damage to the bicycle or in an accident which can cause serious injury or
death.
If you want to learn to do major service and repair work on your bike:
1. Ask your dealer for copies of the manufacturer’s installation and service instructions for
the components on your bike, or contact the component manufacturer.
2. Ask your dealer to recommend a book on bicycle repair.
3. Ask your dealer about the availability of bicycle repair courses in your area.
We recommend that you ask your dealer to check the quality of your work the first
time you work on something and before you ride the bike, just to make sure that you did
44
everything correctly. Since that will require the time of a mechanic, there may be a modest
charge for this service.
We also recommend that you ask your dealer for guidance on what spare parts, such as
inner tubes, light bulbs, etc. it would be appropriate for you to have once you have learned
how to replace such parts when they require replacement.
A. Service Intervals
Some service and maintenance can and should be performed by the owner, and require no
special tools or knowledge beyond what is presented in this manual.
The following are examples of the type of service you should perform yourself. All
other service, maintenance and repair should be performed in a properly equipped facility
by a qualified bicycle mechanic using the correct tools and procedures specified by the
manufacturer.
1. Break-in Period: Your bike will last longer and work better if you break it in before riding
it hard. Control cables and wheel spokes may stretch or “seat” when a new bike is first used
and may require readjustment by your dealer. Your Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C)
will help you identify some things that need readjustment. But even if everything seems fine
to you, it’s best to take your bike back to the dealer for a checkup. Dealers typically suggest
you bring the bike in for a 30 day checkup. Another way to judge when it’s time for the first
checkup is to bring the bike in after three to five hours of hard o-road use, or about 10 to 15
hours of on-road or more casual o-road use. But if you think something is wrong with the
bike, take it to your dealer before riding it again.
2. Before every ride: Mechanical Safety Check (Section )1.C
3. After every long or hard ride; if the bike has been exposed to water or grit; or at
least every 100 miles: Clean the bike and lightly lubricate the chain’s rollers with a good
quality bicycle chain lubricant. Wipe o excess lubricant with a lint-free cloth. Lubrication
is a function of climate. Talk to your dealer about the best lubricants and the recommended
lubrication frequency for your area.
4. After every long or hard ride or after every 10 to 20 hours of riding:
• Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike forward and back. Everything feel solid? If you
feel a clunk with each forward or backward movement of the bike, you probably have a loose
45
headset. Have your dealer check it.
• Lift the front wheel o the ground and swing it from side to side. Feel smooth? If you
feel any binding or roughness in the steering, you may have a tight headset. Have your dealer
check it.
• Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from the centerline of the bike; then do the
same with the other pedal. Anything feel loose? If so, have your dealer check it.
• Take a look at the brake pads. Starting to look worn or not hitting the wheel rim
squarely? Time to have the dealer adjust or replace them.
• Carefully check the control cables and cable housings. Any rust? Kinks? Fraying? If so,
have your dealer replace them.
• Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on either side of each wheel between your thumb
and index finger. Do they all feel about the same? If any feel loose, have your dealer check
the wheel for tension and trueness.
• Check the tires for excess wear, cuts or bruises. Have your dealer replace them if
necessary.
• check the wheel rims for excess wear, dings, dents and scratches. Consult your dealer if
you see any rim damage.
• Check to make sure that all parts and accessories are still secure, and tighten any which
are not.
• Check the frame, particularly in the area around all tube joints; the handlebars; the
stem; and the seatpost for any deep scratches, cracks or discoloration. These are signs of
stress-caused fatigue and indicate that a part is at the end of its useful life and needs to be
replaced. See also Appendix B.
WARNING: Like any mechanical device, a bicycle and its components are subject to
wear and stress. Dierent materials and mechanisms wear or fatigue from stress at
dierent rates and have dierent life cycles. If a component’s life cycle is exceeded,
the component can suddenly and catastrophically fail, causing serious injury or death to
the rider. Scratches, cracks, fraying and discoloration are signs of stress-caused fatigue and
indicate that a part is at the end of its useful life and needs to be replaced. While the
materials and workmanship of your bicycle or of individual components may be covered by
a warranty for a specified period of time by the manufacturer, this is no guarantee that the
product will last the term of the warranty. Product life is often related to the kind of riding
46
you do and to the treatment to which you submit the bicycle. The bicycle’s warranty is not
meant to suggest that the bicycle cannot be broken or will last forever. It only means that
the bicycle is covered subject to the terms of the warranty. Please be sure to read Appendix
A, Intended Use of your bicycle and Appendix B, The lifespan of your bike and its
components, starting on page 43.
5. As required: If either brake lever fails the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C), don’t
ride the bike. Have your dealer check the brakes.
If the chain won’t shift smoothly and quietly from gear to gear, the derailleur is out of
adjustment. See your dealer.
6. Every 25 (hard o-road) to 50 (on-road) hours of riding: Take your bike to your dealer
for a complete checkup.
B. If your bicycle sustains an impact:
First, check yourself for injuries, and take care of them as best you can. Seek medical help
if necessary.
Next, check your bike for damage.
After any crash, take your bike to your dealer for a thorough check. Carbon composite
components, including fames, wheels, handlebars, stems, cranksets, brakes, etc. which have
sustained an impact be ridden until they have been disassembled and thoroughly must not
inspected by a qualified mechanic.
See also Appendix B, Lifespan of your bike and its components.
WARNING: A crash or other impact can put extraordinary stress on bicycle
components, causing them to fatigue prematurely. Components suering from
stress fatigue can fail suddenly and catastrophically, causing loss of control, serious
injury or death.
47
Appendix A
Intended use of your bicycle
WARNING: Understand your bike and its intended use. Choosing the wrong bicycle
for your purpose can be hazardous. Using your bike the wrong way is dangerous.
No one type of bicycle is suited for all purposes. Your retailer can help you pick the
“right tool for the job” and help you understand its limitations. There are many types of
bicycles and many variations within each type. There are many types of mountain, road,
racing, hybrid, touring, cyclocross and tandem bicycles.
There are also bicycles that mix features. For example, there are road/racing bikes with
triple cranks. These bikes have the low gearing of a touring bike, the quick handling of a
racing bike, but are not well suited for carrying heavy loads on a tour. For that purpose you
want a touring bike.
Within each of type of bicycle, one can optimize for certain purposes. Visit your
bicycle shop and find someone with expertise in the area that interests you. Do your own
homework. Seemingly small changes such as the choice of tires can improve or diminish the
performance of a bicycle for a certain purpose.
On the following pages, we generally outline the intended uses of various types of bikes.
Industry usage conditions are generalized and evolving. Consult your dealer about how
you intend to use your bike.
48
High-Performance Road
CONDITION 1
Bikes designed for riding on a paved surface where the tires do not lose ground contact.
INTENDED To be ridden on paved roads only.
NOT INTENDED For o-road, cyclocross, or touring with racks or panniers.
TRADE OFF Material use is optimized to deliver both light weight and specific
performance. You must understand that (1) these types of bikes are intended to give an
aggressive racer or competitive cyclist a performance advantage over a relatively short
product life, (2) a less aggressive rider will enjoy longer frame life, (3) you are choosing
light weight (shorter frame life) over more frame weight and a longer frame life, (4) you
are choosing light weight over more dent resistant or rugged frames that weigh more. All
frames that are very light need frequent inspection. These frames are likely to be damaged
or broken in a crash. They are not designed to take abuse or be a rugged workhorse. See also
Appendix B.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER LUGGAGE* TOTAL
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg
275 / 125 10 / 4.5 285 / 129
* Seat Bag /Handlebar Bag Only
General Purpose Riding
CONDITION 2
Bikes designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth gravel roads and improved trails with
moderate grades where the tires do not lose ground contact.
INTENDED For paved roads, gravel or dirt roads that are in good condition, and bike
paths.
NOT INTENDED For o-road or mountain bike use, or for any kind of jumping. Some of
these bikes have suspension features, but these features are designed to add comfort, not
o-road capability. Some come with relatively wide tires that are well suited to gravel or
dirt paths. Some come with relatively narrow tires that are best suited to faster riding on
49
pavement. If you ride on gravel or dirt paths, carry heavier loads or want more tire durability
talk to your dealer about wider tires.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER LUGGAGE TOTAL
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg
300 / 136 30 / 14 285 / 129
for Touring or Trekking
300 / 136 55 / 25 355 / 161
Cross-Country, Marathon, Hardtails
CONDITION 3
Bikes designed for riding Conditions 1 and 2, plus rough trails, small obstacles, and smooth
technical areas, including areas where momentary loss of tire contact with the ground may
occur. NOT jumping. All mountain bikes without rear suspension are Condition 3, and so are
some lightweight rear suspension models.
INTENDED For cross-country riding and racing which ranges from mild to aggressive over
intermediate terrain (e.g., hilly with small obstacles like roots, rocks, loose surfaces and hard
pack and depressions). Cross-country and marathon equipment (tires, shocks, frames, drive
trains) are light-weight, favoring nimble speed over brute force. Suspension travel is relatively
short since the bike is intended to move quickly on the ground.
NOT INTENDED For Hardcore Freeriding, Extreme Downhill, Dirt Jumping, Slopestyle, or
very aggressive or extreme riding. No spending time in the air landing hard and hammering
through obstacles.
TRADE OFF Cross-Country bikes are lighter, faster to ride uphill, and more nimble than All-
Mountain bikes. Cross-Country and Marathon bikes trade o some ruggedness for pedaling
50
eciency and uphill speed.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER LUGGAGE* TOTAL
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg
300 / 136 5 /2.3 305 / 138
* Seat Bag Only
Front suspension frames manufactured with
original equipment seat stay and dropout
rack mounts only
300 / 136 55 / 25 355 / 161
All Mountain
CONDITION 4
Bikes designed for riding Conditions 1, 2, and 3, plus rough technical areas, moderately
sized obstacles, and small jumps.
INTENDED For trail and uphill riding. All-Mountain bicycles are: (1) more heavy duty than
cross country bikes, but less heavy duty than Freeride bikes, (2) lighter and more nimble
than Freeride bikes,
(3) heavier and have more suspension travel than a cross country bike, allowing them to be
ridden in more dicult terrain, over larger obstacles and moderate jumps, (4) intermediate
in suspension travel and use components that fit the intermediate intended use, (5) cover
a fairly wide range of intended use, and within this range are models that are more or less
heavy duty. Talk to your retailer about your needs and these models.
NOT INTENDED For use in extreme forms of jumping/riding such as hardcore mountain,
Freeriding, Downhill, North Shore, Dirt Jumping, Hucking etc. No large drop os, jumps or
launches (wooden structures, dirt embankments) requiring long suspension travel or heavy
duty components; and no spending time in the air landing hard and hammering through
51
obstacles.
TRADE OFF All-Mountain bikes are more rugged than cross country bikes, for riding more
dicult terrain. All-Mountain bikes are heavier and harder to ride uphill than cross country
bikes. All-Mountain bikes are lighter, more nimble and easier to ride uphill than Freeride
bikes. All-Mountain bikes are not as rugged as Freeride bikes and must not be used for more
extreme riding and terrain.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER LUGGAGE* TOTAL
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg
300 / 136 5 / 2.3 305 / 138
* Seat Bag Only
Gravity, Freeride, and Downhill
CONDITION 5
Bikes designed for jumping, hucking, high speeds, or aggressive riding on rougher
surfaces, or landing on flat surfaces. However, this type of riding is extremely hazardous and
puts unpredictable forces on a bicycle which may overload the frame, fork, or parts. If you
choose to ride in Condition 5 terrain, you should take appropriate safety precautions such
as more frequent bike inspections and replacement of equipment. You should also wear
comprehensive safety equipment such as a full-face helmet, pads, and body armor.
INTENDED For riding that includes the most dicult terrain that only very skilled riders
should attempt.
Gravity, Freeride, and Downhill are terms which describe hardcore mountain, north shore,
slopestyle. This is “extreme” riding and the terms describing it are constantly evolving.
Gravity, Freeride, and Downhill bikes are: (1) heavier and have more suspension travel than
All-Mountain bikes, allowing them to be ridden in more dicult terrain, over larger obstacles
and larger jumps, (2) the longest in suspension travel and use components that fit heavy
duty intended use. While all that is true, there is no guarantee that extreme riding will not
break a Freeride bike.
52
The terrain and type of riding that Freeride bikes are designed for is inherently dangerous.
Appropriate equipment, such as a Freeride bike, does not change this reality. In this kind
of riding, bad judgment, bad luck, or riding beyond your capabilities can easily result in an
accident, where you could be seriously injured, paralyzed or killed.
NOT INTENDED To be an excuse to try anything. Read Section 2. F, p. 10.
TRADE OFF Freeride bikes are more rugged than All-Mountain bikes, for riding more dicult
terrain. Freeride bikes are heavier and harder to ride uphill than All-Mountain bikes.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER LUGGAGE* TOTAL
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg
300 / 136 5 / 2.3 305 / 138
* Seat Bag Only
Dirt Jump
CONDITION 5
Bikes designed for jumping, hucking, high speeds, or aggressive riding on rougher
surfaces, or landing on flat surfaces. However, this type of riding is extremely hazardous and
puts unpredictable forces on a bicycle which may overload the frame, fork, or parts. If you
choose to ride in Condition 5 terrain, you should take appropriate safety precautions such
as more frequent bike inspections and replacement of equipment. You should also wear
comprehensive safety equipment such as a full-face helmet, pads, and body armor.
INTENDED For man-made dirt jumps, ramps, skate parks other predictable obstacles and
terrain where riders need and use skill and bike control, rather than suspension. Dirt Jumping
bikes are used much like heavy duty BMX bikes.
A Dirt Jumping bike does not give you skills to jump. Read Section 2. F, p. 10.
NOT INTENDED For terrain, drop os or landings where large amounts of suspension
travel are needed to help absorb the shock of landing and help maintain control.
TRADE OFF Dirt Jumping bikes are lighter and more nimble than Freeride bikes, but they
53
have no rear suspension and the suspension travel in the front is much shorter.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER LUGGAGE TOTAL
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg
300 / 136 0 300 / 136
Cyclo-cross
CONDITION 2
Bikes designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth gravel roads and improved trails with
moderate grades where the tires do not lose ground contact.
INTENDED For cyclo-cross riding, training and racing. Cyclo-cross involves riding on a
variety of terrain and surfaces including dirt or mud surfaces. Cyclo-cross bikes also work
well for all weather rough road riding and commuting.
NOT INTENDED For o road or mountain bike use, or jumping. Cyclo-cross riders and
racers dismount before reaching an obstacle, carry their bike over the obstacle and then
remount. Cyclo-cross bikes are not intended for mountain bike use. The relatively large road
bike size wheels are faster than the smaller mountain bike wheels, but not as strong.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER LUGGAGE TOTAL
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg
300 / 136 30 / 13.6 330 / 150
54
Road Tandems
CONDITION 1
Bikes designed for riding on a paved surface where the tires do not lose ground contact.
INTENDED Are designed to be ridden on paved roads only. They are not designed for
mountain biking or o-road use.
NOT INTENDED Road tandem should not be taken o-road or used as a mountain
tandem.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER LUGGAGE TOTAL
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg
500 / 227 75 / 34 575 / 261
55
Mountain Tandems
CONDITION 2
Bikes designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth gravel roads and improved trails with
moderate grades where the tires do not lose ground contact.
INTENDED The challenges of mountain biking are obvious. The added challenges of
tandem riding mean that you should limit o-road tandem riding to easy-moderate terrain.
NOT INTENDED For very aggressive mountain bike riding. Mountain tandems are most
definitely NOT for Downhill, Freeriding, North Shore. Choose terrain with the abilities of both
the Tandem’s captain and stoker in mind.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT LIMIT
RIDER LUGGAGE TOTAL
lbs / kg lbs / kg lbs / kg
500 / 227 75 / 34 575 / 261
56
Appendix B
The lifespan of your bike and its components
1. Nothing Lasts Forever, Including Your Bike.
When the useful life of your bike or its components is over, continued use is hazardous.
Every bicycle and its component parts have a finite, limited useful life. The length of that
life will vary with the construction and materials used in the frame and components; the
maintenance and care the frame and components receive over their life; and the type and
amount of use to which the frame and components are subjected. Use in competitive events,
trick riding, ramp riding, jumping, aggressive riding, riding on severe terrain, riding in severe
climates, riding with heavy loads, commercial activities and other types of non-standard use
can dramatically shorten the life of the frame and components. Any one or a combination of
these conditions may result in an unpredictable failure.
All aspects of use being identical, lightweight bicycles and their components will usually
have a shorter life than heavier bicycles and their components. In selecting a lightweight
bicycle or components you are making a tradeo, favoring the higher performance that
comes with lighter weight over longevity. So, If you choose lightweight, high performance
equipment, be sure to have it inspected frequently.
You should have your bicycle and its components checked periodically by your dealer for
indicators of stress and/or potential failure, including cracks, deformation, corrosion, paint
peeling, dents, and any other indicators of potential problems, inappropriate use or abuse.
These are important safety checks and very important to help prevent accidents, bodily
injury to the rider and shortened product life.
2. Perspective
Today’s high-performance bicycles require frequent and careful inspection and service.
In this Appendix we try to explain some underlying material science basics and how they
relate to your bicycle. We discuss some of the trade-os made in designing your bicycle and
what you can expect from your bicycle; and we provide important, basic guidelines on how
to maintain and inspect it. We cannot teach you everything you need to know to properly
inspect and service your bicycle; and that is why we repeatedly urge you to take your bicycle
59
The basics of metal fatigue
Common sense tells us that nothing that is used lasts forever. The more you use
something, and the harder you use it, and the worse the conditions you use it in, the shorter
its life.
Fatigue is the term used to describe accumulated damage to a part caused by repeated
loading. To cause fatigue damage, the load the part receives must be great enough. A crude,
often-used example is bending a paper clip back and forth (repeated loading) until it breaks.
This simple definition will help you understand that fatigue has nothing to do with time or
age. A bicycle in a garage does not fatigue. Fatigue happens only through use.
So what kind of “damage” are we talking about? On a microscopic level, a crack forms
in a highly stressed area. As the load is repeatedly applied, the crack grows. At some point
the crack becomes visible to the naked eye. Eventually it becomes so large that the part is
too weak to carry the load that it could carry without the crack. At that point there can be a
complete and immediate failure of the part.
One can design a part that is so strong that fatigue life is nearly infinite. This requires a
lot of material and a lot of weight. Any structure that must be light and strong will have a
finite fatigue life. Aircraft, race cars, motorcycles all have parts with finite fatigue lives. If you
wanted a bicycle with an infinite fatigue life, it would weigh far more than any bicycle sold
today. So we all make a tradeo: the wonderful, lightweight performance we want requires
that we inspect the structure.
What to look for
• ONCE A CRACKS STARTS IT CAN GROW AND GROW
FAST. Think about the crack as forming a pathway to
failure. This means that any crack is potentially danger-
ous and will only become more dangerous.
SIMPLE RULE 1 : If you find
crack, replace the part.
• CORROSSION SPEEDS DAMAGE. Cracks grow more
quickly when they are in a corrosive environment. Think
about the corrosive solution as further weakening and
extending the crack.
SIMPLE RULE 2 : Clean your
bike, lubricate your bike,
protect your bike from salt,
remove any salt as soon as
you can.
60
• STAINS AND DISCOLORATION CAN OCCUR NEAR
A CRACK. Such staining may be a warning sign that a
crack exists.
SIMPLE RULE 3 : Inspect and
investigate any staining to see
if it is associated with a crack.
• SIGNIFICANT SCRATCHES, GOUGES, DENTS OR SCOR-
ING CREATE STARTING POINTS FOR CRACKS. Think about
the cut surface as a focal point for stress (in fact engineers
call such areas “stress risers,” areas where the stress is
increased). Perhaps you have seen glass cut? Recall how
the glass was scored and then broke on the scored line.
SIMPLE RULE 4 : Do not
scratch, gouge or score any
surface. If you do, pay frequent
attention to this area or replace
the part.
• SOME CRACKS (particularly larger ones) MAY MAKE
CREAKING NOISE AS YOU RIDE. Think about such a noise
as a serious warning signal. Note that a well-maintained
bicycle will be very quiet and free of creaks and squeaks.
SIMPLE RULE 5 : Investigate
and find the source of any
noise. It may not a be a crack,
but whatever is causing the
noise should be fixed promptly.
In most cases a fatigue crack is not a defect. It is a sign that the part has been worn out,
a sign the part has reached the end of its useful life. When your car tires wear down to the
point that the tread bars are contacting the road, those tires are not defective. Those tires
are worn out and the tread bar says “time for replacement.” When a metal part shows a
fatigue crack, it is worn out. The crack says “time for replacement.”
Fatigue Is Not A Perfectly Predictable Science
Fatigue is not a perfectly predictable science, but here are some general factors to help
you and your dealer determine how often your bicycle should be inspected. The more you fit
the “shorten product life” profile, the more frequent your need to inspect. The more you fit
the “lengthen product life” profile, the less frequent your need to inspect.
Factors that shorten product life:
Hard, harsh riding style
“Hits”, crashes, jumps, other “shots” to the bike
61
High mileage
Higher body weight
Stronger, more fit, more aggressive rider
Corrosive environment
(wet, salt air, winter road salt, accumulated sweat)
Presence of abrasive mud, dirt, sand, soil in riding environment
Factors that lengthen product life:
Smooth, fluid riding style
No “hits”, crashes, jumps, other “shots” to the bike
Low mileage
Lower body weight
Less aggressive rider
Non-corrosive environment (dry, salt-free air)
Clean riding environment
WARNING: Do not ride a bicycle or component with any crack, bulge or dent, even a
small one. Riding a cracked frame, fork or component could lead to complete failure,
with risk of serious injury or death.
B. Understanding composites
All riders must understand a fundamental reality of composites. Composite materials
constructed of carbon fibers are strong and light, but when crashed or overloaded, carbon
fibers do not bend, they break.
What Are Composites?
The term “composites” refers to the fact that a part or parts are made up of dierent
components or materials. You’ve heard the term “carbon fiber bike.” This really means
“composite bike.”
Carbon fiber composites are typically a strong, light fiber in a matrix of plastic, molded
to form a shape. Carbon composites are light relative to metals. Steel weighs 7.8 grams/cm
3
(grams per cubic centimeter), titanium 4.5 grams/cm
3, aluminum 2.75 grams/cm3. Contrast
these numbers with carbon fiber composite at 1.45 grams/cm
3.
62
The composites with the best strength-to-weight ratios are made of carbon fiber in a
matrix of epoxy plastic. The epoxy matrix bonds the carbon fibers together, transfers load to
other fibers, and provides a smooth outer surface. The carbon fibers are the “skeleton” that
carries the load.
Why Are Composites Used?
Unlike metals, which have uniform properties in all directions (engineers call this
isotropic), carbon fibers can be placed in specific orientations to optimize the structure for
particular loads. The choice of where to place the carbon fibers gives engineers a powerful
tool to create strong, light bicycles. Engineers may also orient fibers to suit other goals such
as comfort and vibration damping.
Carbon fiber composites are very corrosion resistant, much more so than most metals.
Think about carbon fiber or fiberglass boats.
Carbon fiber materials have a very high strength-to-weight ratio.
What Are The Limits Of Composites?
Well designed “composite” or carbon fiber bicycles and components have long fatigue
lives, usually better than their metal equivalents.
While fatigue life is an advantage of carbon fiber, you must still regularly inspect your
carbon fiber frame, fork, or components.
Carbon fiber composites are not ductile. Once a carbon structure is overloaded, it will
not bend; it will break. At and near the break, there will be rough, sharp edges and maybe
delamination of carbon fiber or carbon fiber fabric layers. There will be no bending, buckling,
or stretching.
If You Hit Something Or Have A Crash, What Can You Expect From Your Carbon Fiber Bike?
Let’s say you hit a curb, ditch, rock, car, other cyclist or other object. At any speed above
a fast walk, your body will continue to move forward, the momentum carrying you over the
front of the bike. You cannot and will not stay on the bike and what happens to the frame,
fork and other components is irrelevant to what happens to your body.
What should you expect from your carbon frame? It depends on many complex factors.
But we can tell you that if the impact is hard enough, the fork or frame may be completely
broken. Note the significant dierence in behavior between carbon and metal. See
63
Section 2. A, Understanding metals in this Appendix. Even if the carbon frame was twice
as strong as a metal frame, once the carbon frame is overloaded it will not bend, it will
break completely.
Inspection of Composite Frame, Fork, and Components
Cracks:
Inspect for cracks, broken, or splintered areas. Any crack is serious. Do not ride any
bicycle or component that has a crack of any size. Delamination:
Delamination is serious damage. Composites are made from layers of fabric.
Delamination means that the layers of fabric are no longer bonded together. Do not
ride any bicycle or component that has any delamination. These are some delamination
clues:
1. • A cloudy or white area. This kind of area looks dierent from the ordinary undamaged
areas. Undamaged areas will look glassy, shiny, or “deep,” as if one was looking into a clear
liquid. Delaminated areas will look opaque and cloudy.
2. • Bulging or deformed shape. If delamination occurs, the surface shape may change. The
surface may have a bump, a bulge, soft spot, or not be smooth and fair.
3. • A dierence in sound when tapping the surface. If you gently tap the surface of an
undamaged composite you will hear a consistent sound, usually a hard, sharp sound. If you
then tap a delaminated area, you will hear a dierent sound, usually duller, less sharp.
Unusual Noises:
Either a crack or delamination can cause creaking noises while riding. Think about such
a noise as a serious warning signal. A well maintained bicycle will be very quiet and free
of creaks and squeaks. Investigate and find the source of any noise. It may not be a crack
or delamination, but whatever is causing the noise must be fixed before riding.
WARNING: Do not ride a bicycle or component with any delamination or crack.
Riding a delaminated or cracked frame, fork or other component could lead to
complete failure, with risk of serious injury or death.
C. Understanding components
It is often necessary to remove and disassemble components in order to properly and
64
carefully inspect them. This is a job for a professional bicycle mechanic with the special
tools, skills and experience to inspect and service today’s high-tech high-performance
bicycles and their components.
Aftermarket “Super Light” components
Think carefully about your rider profile as outlined above. The more you fit the
“shorten product life” profile, the more you must question the use of super light
components. The more you fit the “lengthen product life” profile, the more likely it is that
lighter components may be suitable for you. Discuss your needs and your profile very
honestly with your dealer.
Take these choices seriously and understand that you are responsible for the changes.
A useful slogan to discuss with your dealer if you contemplate changing
components is “Strong, Light, Cheap –pick two.”
Original Equipment components
Bicycle and component manufacturers tests the fatigue life of the components that
are original equipment on your bike. This means that they have met test criteria and have
reasonable fatigue life. It does not mean that the original components will last forever.
They won’t.
65
Appendix C
Coaster Brake
1. How the coaster brake works
The coaster brake is a sealed mechanism which is a part of the bicycle’s rear wheel hub.
The brake is activated by reversing the rotation of the pedal cranks (see fig. 5). Start with
the pedal cranks in a nearly horizontal position, with the front pedal in about the 4 o’clock
position, and apply downward foot pressure on the pedal that is to the rear. About 1/8 turn
rotation will activate the brake. The more downward pressure you apply, the more braking
force, up to the point where the rear wheel stops rotating and begins to skid.
WARNING: Before riding, make sure that the brake is working properly. If it is not
working properly, have the bicycle checked by your dealer before you ride it.
WARNING: If your bike has only a coaster brake, ride conservatively. A single rear
brake does not have the stopping power of front-and-rear brake systems.
2. Adjusting your coaster brake
Coaster brake service and adjustment requires special tools and special knowledge. Do
not attempt to disassemble or service your coaster brake. Take the bicycle to your dealer for
coaster brake service.
Appendix D
Fastener Torque Specifications
Correct tightening torque of threaded fasteners is very important to your safety. Always
tighten fasteners to the correct torque. In case of a conflict between the instructions in this
manual and information provided by a component manufacturer, consult with your dealer
for clarification. Bolts that are too tight can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose
can move and fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt.
66
Always use a correctly calibrated torque wrench to tighten critical fasteners on your bike.
Carefully follow the torque wrench manufacturer’s instructions on the correct way to set
and use the torque wrench for accurate results.
Appendix E
Teaching your Child the Rules
In addition to The Basics (page 6), Riding Safely (page 7), O Road Safety (page 8), Wet
Weather Riding (page 8), Night Riding (page 9), Bicycling in Trac (page 10 and Appendix
B) and Downhill, Stunt and Competition Biking (page 10), kids need to be taught ... and to
have frequently reinforced ... the following rules and lessons which adults are already ex-
pected to know. We urge you to take the time to familiarize yourself with these rules and to
teach them to your child before you let your child ride unsupervised.
1. Rules
• No playing in the road or in the street.
• No riding on busy streets.
• No riding at dawn, dusk or at night.
• Stop for all STOP signs.
• Ride on the right of trac.
2. Lessons
The lessons that follow relate to some of the most common real situations that chil-
dren encounter when riding their bikes. Go over these situations with your child and make
sure the lesson objective is accomplished.
a. Driveway Rideout
When a youngster rides out of the driveway and is struck by a car, that is called a
rideout accident.
What can you do? First, realize the danger of your own driveway. If there are ob-
structions to the view of passing motorists (like bushes or trees), trim them back. You might
67
park your car in front of the driveway, if local ordinance permits. This way, your child can’t
use the driveway as a launching pad.
But the most important thing you can do is teach your child about driveway safety. Take your
child outside to the driveway and have him/her practice the following steps:
1) Stop before entering the street.
2) Look left, right and left again for trac.
3) If there’s no trac, proceed into the roadway.
b. Running the Stop Sign
Car/bike crashes can happen when a cyclist runs a stop sign. Most cyclists who
get hit riding through stop signs know that they were supposed to stop. They just thought
it would be OK this time; or they may have been distracted. The thing to impress upon your
child is that while he/she may not get hit every time, running stop signs will eventually result
in an accident.
What can you do? Take your child to a stop sign near home. Explain what it means
by emphasizing the following points:
1) Stop at all stop signs, regardless of what is happening.
2) Look in all directions for trac.
3) Watch for oncoming cars making left turns.
4) Watch for cars behind you making right turns.
5) Wait for any cross trac to clear.
6) Proceed when safe.
In order to make this lesson stick, you may have to change your own driving habits.
If you creep through intersections controlled by stop signs, you are showing your child that
you don’t really believe what you preach. For your child’s sake, stop at stop signs.
c. Turning Without Warning
Another major accident type involves cyclists who make unexpected left turns.
They neither look behind for trac, nor do they signal. The key factor here is neglecting to
look to the rear. If the cyclist had looked, he/she would have seen the danger coming up
from behind.
What can you do? Of course, you ought to teach your child not to ride across busy
streets - at least until the child has had some advanced training and is old enough to under-
68
stand trac. But in the meantime, for residential street riding, you can teach your child to
always look and signal before turning left. A big part of this lesson is teaching the child how
to look to the rear without swerving.
Take your child to a playground or a safe area away from trac or obstructions to
practice riding along a straight line while looking behind. Stand alongside and hold up a
dierent number of fingers on your hand after the child rides by. Call his/her name. After 15
minutes of practice, a ten year old should be able to look behind his/herself and identify how
many fingers you are holding up - without swerving.
d. Riding at Dawn, at Dusk or at Night.
Most car/bicycle accidents happen at night where an overtaking car hits a bike. (An
overtaking car is one that comes up from behind and passes the cyclist on the left.) These
overtaking accidents can be very serious.
What can you do? First, you should keep your youngster from riding at dawn, dusk
or at night. It requires special skills and equipment. Few children have either. Secondly,
make sure your child understands that if he/she gets caught out at dusk or after dark on a
bike, the thing to do is to call you for a ride home. One suggestion is to tape a phone num-
ber and money to the bike so that, in an emergency, the child will be able to call home.
e. Following the Leader
There is increased risk of car/bike collision if children are following each other,
because if the first one does something dangerous, those following may do it too.
What can you do? Teach your child to always assess the trac situation for him/
herself. When a group is riding around, each cyclist should stop for stop signs; each cyclist
should look to the rear before making left turns; and so on.
SUMMARY
Teach your child early - the earlier the better. Learning skills such as looking and
avoiding hazards takes time. Be prepared to repeat lessons until your child understands
what you’re trying to get across. Be patient. Your eorts will be rewarded, knowing that
your child is aware of safe riding skills.
69
Appendix F
Bicycling in Trac
Obey trac signs and signals
– Bicycles must drive like other
vehicles if they are to be taken
seriously by motorists.
Ride in a straight line –
Whenever possible, ride in a
straight line, to the right of
trac, but about a car door’s
width away from parked cars.
Follow lane markings – Don’t
turn left from the right lane.
Don’t go straight in a lane
marked “Right Turn Only.”
Choose best way to turn
left – There are two ways to
make a left turn. #1 Like an
auto – Signal, move into the
left lane and turn left. #2 Like
a pedestrian – Ride straight to
the far side crosswalk. Walk
your bike across.
Don’t weave between parked
cars – Don’t ride out to the
curb between parked cars
unless they are far apart.
Motorists may not see you
when you try to move back
into trac.
Ride in middle of lane in slow
trac – Get in the middle of
the lane at busy intersections
and whenever you are moving
at the same speed as trac.
Never ride against trac –
Motorists aren’t looking, and
don’t expect to see, bicyclists
riding on the wrong side of
the road.
Use hand signals – Hand
signals, using your left arm,
tell motorists what you intend
to do. Use the proper signals
as a matter of law, courtesy
and safety.
70
Don’t pass on the right –
Motorists may not look for
or see a bicycle passing on
the right.
Go slow on sidewalks –
Pedestrians have the right of
way. By law, you must give
pedestrians audible warning
when you pass. Don’t cross
driveways or intersections
without slowing to a walkers’
pace and looking very carefully
for trac (especially trac
turning right on a green light).
Avoid road hazards – Watch
out for parallel slot sewer
grates, slippery manhole
covers, oily pavement, gravel
and ice. Cross railroad tracks
carefully at right angles. To
get better control as you
move across bumps and other
hazards, stand up on your
pedals.
Keep both hands ready to brake
– You may not stop in time if
you brake one-handed. Allow
extra distance for stopping in
the rain, since brakes are less
ecient when wet.
Watch for chasing dogs –
Ignore them or try a firm
“NO!” If the dog doesn’t stop,
dismount with your bike
between you and the dog.
Dogs are attracted to spinning
wheels and feet.
Watch for cars pulling out –
Make eye contact with the
driver. Assume they don’t see
you until you are sure they do.
Scan the road behind – Learn
to look back over your
shoulder without losing your
balance or swerving. Some
riders use rear view mirrors.
71
REDLINE LIMITED WARRANTY
REDLINE Bicycles warrants the replacement of original components on REDLINE Bicycles
due to defects in materials and/or workmanship according to the following conditions and
limitations:
1. The frame is warranted to the original purchaser for as long as he or she owns the
bicycle.
2. The components, other than the frame, are warranted for one year from the date of
purchase.
3. Labor and transportation charges are not included, They are the responsibility of the
bicycle’s owner.
4. This warranty is limited to the original retail purchaser only.
5. Proof of purchase is required to validate protection under this limited warranty.
6. Normal wear, accident, abuse, neglect, improper assembly, improper maintenance
by other than an authorized dealer, or use of parts or devices not consistent with the
use originally intended for the bicycle as sold are not covered by this warranty.
7. Bending of frames, forks, handlebars, seatposts and rims is excluded in this warranty.
Bending is a sign of abuse or punishment inconsistent with the bike’s intended use,
and is therefore not covered under this limited warranty.
8. It is necessary to have your bicycle assembled and adjusted by an REDLINE
authorized REDLINE Dealer in order to validate your warranty. Claims must be made
through an authorized dealer. For information regarding the nearest dealer, write or
call this company. (425) 251-1516.
9. This warranty is limited to replacing the defective parts without charge and the
company shall in no event be responsible for consequential or special damages.
10. This bicycle is not designed for use in stunt riding, ramp jumping, commercial use or
other similar activities and this warranty is void where the bicycle has been used in
any of these ways.Likewise, the bicycle is not designed or intended to be used with
a motor.
11. This warranty is expressly in lieu of any other warranties. Any implied warranty,
including any warranty of merchantability of fitness, shall be limited in duration to
the duration of the express warranty set forth herein. NOTICE: The user assumes the
72
risk of any personal injuries, damage to or failure of the bicycle and any other losses
if the bicycle is used in any competitive event, including bicycle racing, or REDLINE
in dirt biking or similar events.
12. The return of the warranty registration form or online registration within 30 days of
purchase is a condition precedent to coverage provided herein.
13. This Warranty is null and void if this Bicycle has not been fully assembled by an
authorized Dealer.REDLINE
This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which may
vary from state to state.
Please register online at www.redlinebicycles.com or fill out registration card and mail to:
REDLINE Bicycles
7620 South 192nd, Kent, Washington 98032
For Customer Service-(425) 251-1516.
Carbon Fiber Warranty Information
For carbon fiber frames, line 1 of the standard warranty is replaced by:
Carbon fiber frames are warranted against manufacturing defects to the original purchaser
for two years after the date of purchase. The original purchaser must register their frame at
Boomerangit by visiting www.redlinebicycles.com, clicking on the Support Link, then clicking
on the link to Boomerangit.
Carbon fiber frames are designed for competitive racing and are not intended for stunts,
ramp riding, trails or other activities other than competing on sanctioned tracks.
Inspect your frame after every use. If you notice any cracks or other suspicious signs of
failure, stop using it immediately and contact your Authorized Redline Dealer.
73
Carbon Fiber Crash Replacement Policy
Redline realizes that crashes happen. Therefore Redline Carbon Fiber frames include a 2-year
crash replacement policy. Here’s how it works:
1. You will have had to register your original frame (see instructions above) within 10
days after the purchase.
2. You must be the original owner and have proof of purchase.
3. You must contact your Authorized Redline Dealer for a return authorization #, and
arrange for the frame to be returned to Redline.
4. Redline will oer you a replacement frame (based on availability) thru the dealer at a
special reduced price.
5. You are responsible for any labor charges to disassemble and/or ship your frame
to Redline, and for all shipping costs and/or labor charges to reassemble the
replacement frame.
6. You must register the replacement frame within 10 days of purchase.
74
Bike Assembly Instructions
Congratulations on purchasing your new REDLINE bicycle!
Your Redline Bicycle should be assembled by an authorized Redline Dealer.
1) Install Front Wheel
2) Adjust Handlebars
3) Install Pedals
4) Install & Adjust Saddle
5) Inflate Tires
6) Install Axle Pegs
7) Install Safety Pads
8) Install Front Brake Cable
9) Install Front Reflector
10) Adjust Chain Tensioners
Tools required:
• Metric Hex Keys
• Large Adjustable Wrench
• Flat Blade & Phillips Blade Screw Drivers
• Pedal Wrench
• Slip Joint Pliers
• Socket, Extension, and Ratchet
Important Information
Torque Settings
The torque settings supplied are for general use only. Many components may come with their
own specific settings. Please read fully all owners manuals supplied with your bike before
assembly. Failure to follow recommended settings may cause damage or failure, and/or
invalidate warranty.
These instructions may refer to items that are not included with all models of bicycles.
75
Front Wheel
Loosen the outer axle nuts on both sides of the front wheel. Insert the wheel into the front
fork being careful to insert the safety washer tabs on the axle into the appropriate slots
in the fork. Center the wheel into the fork and tighten the axle nuts. Axle nuts should be
tightened to a torque setting of 220 in/lb
Handlebars
Torque settings: For a 6mm bolt a maximum torque of 60 in/lb should be applied. For 8mm
bolts an 80 in/lb maximum torque must be applied.
Two piece stem:
Remove the front plate of the handlebar stem with a 6mm hex key: Place handlebar into
stem and replace front / top plate making sure the handlebar is equal in length on both
sides.
Follow this advice for correct positioning of the handlebars:
· For flat and riser handlebars, the controls are roughly at a 45° angle with the ground.
· For drop/road handlebars the bottom of the bar is roughly parallel with the ground.
· For BMX bars, the handlebar sits parallel with the fork legs when viewed from the side.
Once desired handlebar position is found you will now need to tighten the bolts on the front
plate of the stem.
Follow these steps and repeat until the handlebar is secure and the recommended torque
settings are reached:
Make one whole clockwise turn, with the correct sized hex key of the bottom left bolt first,
then the top right then bottom right, followed by top left. Repeat until space between face
plate and stem is even at all points
One Piece Stem:
Loosen the handlebar binder bolt, position the handle bars to the desired position, and
tighten the binder bolt securely.
Insert the handlebar assembly into the fork and tighten securely.
Make sure that the handlebar stem does not extend beyond the minimum insertion mark
found on the shaft of the stem.
Pedals
Pay attention when installing the pedals to your bike because the pedal threads are dierent
for the left and right pedals.
The right pedal is for the right side crank arm (chain side) and the left pedal fits on the non-
drive side. Follow the step-by-step guide below:
1. Apply a light coat of grease to the pedal threads.
2. Attach the left hand pedal to the left hand crank arm by rotating the pedal axle counter
clockwise by hand until tight, then fully tighten.
3. Attach the right hand pedal to the right hand crank arm by rotating the axle clockwise by
hand until tight, then fully tighten.
*Pedals should be tightened to a torque setting of 350 in/lb
Saddle
You will need to adjust your saddle to your desired height. The seat clamp will either have a
hex head or a socket head bolt. Undo this with the proper size wrench or adjustable wrench
and adjust the saddle to the correct height. Lightly lubricate the seat post binder bolt and
tighten it to the recommended torque so that the seat does not move. If the bolt is 5mm,
tighten the clamp to 80-100inlb. If the bolt is 4mm, tighten the clamp to 50-60inlb. Make
sure that the seatpost does not extend beyond the minimum insertion mark found on the
seatpost.
78
Front Reflector
Using a Philips screwdriver, attach the reflector bracket to the handlebar, making sure that
the reflector is oriented in the proper directing. Tighten the bracket. Adjust the angle of the
reflector as necessary.
Chain Tensioners: (if equipped)
Begin the chain adjustment by making sure the rear axle nuts are loose. Adjust the bolts of
the chain tensioner so that the chain achieves proper tension, and the wheel is centered in
the frame. Then tighten the rear axle nuts to 220in/lb
81
Produkt Specifikationer
| Mærke: | Redline |
| Kategori: | Cykel |
| Model: | D600 |
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