Hobbywing XR8 SCT PRO Manual

Hobbywing Radiostyret legetøj XR8 SCT PRO

Læs nedenfor 📖 manual på dansk for Hobbywing XR8 SCT PRO (2 sider) i kategorien Radiostyret legetøj. Denne guide var nyttig for 9 personer og blev bedømt med 4.5 stjerner i gennemsnit af 2 brugere

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Side 1/2

Introduction

Features

Warnings

Specifications

Connections

ESC Setup

ESC/Radio Calibration

CA UT IONS

AT T ENT ION

Thank you for purchasing the XERUN XR8 PLUS / XERUN XR8 SCT,

HOBBYWING’s high performance sensored brushless motor electronic

speed controller! Brushless power systems can be very dangerous. Any

improper use may cause personal injury and damage to the product and

related devices. We strongly recommend reading through this user

manual before use. Because we have no control over the use,

installation, or maintenance of this product, no liability may be assumed

for any damage or losses resulting from the use of the product. We do

not assume responsibility for any losses caused by unauthorized

modifications to our product.

AT T ENT ION

USER MANUAL

XERUN XR8 Plus / XR8 SCT

Brushless Electronic Speed Controller

This is an extremely powerful brushless power system. For your safety and the safety of those

around you, we strongly recommend removing the pinion gear before performing calibration and

programming functions with this system, and keeping wheels in the air when you turn on the ESC.

Cont. / Peak Current

Motor Type

Main Applications

150A / 950A

Sensorless / Sensored Brushless Motor

1/8

Scale On-road / Buggy / Truggy for High-level Races

Motor Limit

Model XERUN XR8 PLUS

LiPo / NiMH Cells

BEC Output

Cooling Fan

Connectors

Size/Weight

Programming Port

2-6S LiPo / 6-18S NiMH

6V/7.4V Switchable, Continuous Current of 6A (Switch-mode BEC)

Input End: No, Output End: No.

58.7 x 48 x 36.9 mm (w/Fan) / 127g (W/O Wires)

FAN / PRG Port

4S LiPo / 12cell NiMH: KV 3000 for 4274 size or smaller motor;≤

6S LiPo / 18cell NiMH 2400 for 4274 size or smaller motor.: KV≤

140A/880A

Sensorless / Sensored Brushless Motor

1/10

SCT/Truck/Monster Truck & 1/8

Buggy/On-road Racing

XERUN XR8 SCT

2-4S LiPo / 6-12 Cell NiMH

6V/7.4V Switchable, Continuous Current of 6A (Switch-mode)

Input End: No Connectors Output End: No Connectors

54.1 x 37.2 x 36.1 mm (w/Fan) / 90.5g (W/O Wires)

FAN / PRG Port

With 2S LiPo / 6cell NiMH: 3660 size motor, KV≤6000;

With 3S LiPo / 9cell NiMH: 3660 size motor, KV≤4000;

With 4S LiPo / 12cell NiMH: 3660 size motor, KV≤3000

4268 size motor, KV≤2500.

1. Motor Wiring

The sensored motor wiring is different from the sensorless motor wiring; please make sure that you will strictly follow the introductions below.

A. Sensored Motor Wiring

There is strict wiring order from the ESC to the motor, the three A/B/C ESC wires must connect to the three A/B/C motor wires correspondingly and then connect the ESC sensor port

and the motor sensor port with the stock 6-pin sensor cable.

Note 1:

1) If you don’t plug the sensor cable in, your ESC will still work in sensorless mode even if you’re using a sensored motor.

2) After you install the motor, if you find the car runs in reverse, then please correct the motor rotation in the 6th programmable item.

B. Sensorless Motor Wiring

There is no polarity on the A/B/C wires between ESC and motor, so do not worry about how you connect them initially. You may find it necessary to swap two wires if the motor runs in reverse.

2. Receiver Wiring

Plug the throttle control cable (also called Rx cable) on the ESC into the throttle (TH) channel on receiver. The red wire in the throttle control cable will output the BEC voltage of 6V/7.4V

to the receiver and servo, so please do not connect any additional battery to the receiver. Otherwise, your ESC may get damaged.

3. External Capacitor Module (also called CapPack) Wiring (This operation is Optional and it's for XR8 Plus ESC only.)

When using a 6S, if the capacitor temperature often goes above 85 , you need to connect an external cappack (item sold separately) to the ℃

ESC, otherwise, the insufficient capability of the on-board/built-in cappack may cause capacitors to swell or even explode and the ESC to work

abnormally or even get damaged. Based on our test results, an external cappack is needed by the following two types of vehicles.

External Cappack Wiring Diagram (as shown on the right side). Connect a cappack to the ESC input end and ensure red/positive (+) to

red/positive (+), black/negative (-) to black/negative (-).

A. The vehicle weighs really heavy, the total weight (battery, ESC, motor, steering servo and etc. included) exceeds 7KG, for example, CEN-GST.

B. The vehicle weighs not heavy, but the chassis is designed for super high-speed (over 100km/h) races, for instance, Traxxas XO-1.

Note 2: For the above two kinds of vehicles, we strongly recommend using HOBBYWING EZRUN MAX6 ESC instead, because the MAX6 ESC

has greater power output than XR8.

4. Battery Wiring

Proper polarity is essential here! Make absolutely sure positive (+) of ESC connects to positive (+) of battery, and negative (-) of ESC connects

to negative (-) of battery when you plug in your battery! If reverse polarity is applied to your ESC from the battery, it will damage your ESC.

This will not be covered under warranty!

Power ON/OFF & Warning Tones

1. Power ON/OFF:

(Start with the ESC turned off), press the ON/OFF button to turn on the ESC.

(Start with the ESC turned on) press and hold the ON/OFF button to turn off the ESC.

2. Warning Tones:

Turn on the ESC in the normal way (that is to turn it on without holding the SET button); the motor will beep the number of LiPo cells you have plugged in. For example, 3 beeps indicate a

3S LiPo, 4 beeps indicate a4S LiPo, and 6 beeps indicate a 6S LiPo.

Programmable Items

(Those "black backgroud and white text" options are the factory default settings)

ESC Programming

• Program your ESC with a multifunction LCD program box

You can program this XERUN XR8 Plus / XERUN XR8 SCT through a multifunction LCD program box or a PC (HOBBYWING USB LINK software needs to be

installed on the PC). Before the programming, you need to connect your ESC and the LCD program box through a cable with two JR male connectors and

turn on the ESC, then the boot screen will show up on the LCD, press any button on the program box to initiate the communication between your ESC and

the program box,. The “CONNECTING ESC” will be displayed, a few seconds later; the program box will display the current mode like profile 1 and then the

1st programmable item like Running Mode. You can adjust the setting through “ITEM” & “VALUE” buttons, and then press the “OK” button to save new

settings to your ESC.

• Program your ESC with a WiFi module

You can also program this XR8 SCT/Plus ESC via a WiFi module & a smart phone (HOBBWYING WiFi LINK software needs to be installed on the smart phone).

Before the programming, you need to plug the programming cable on WiFi module into the programming port on ESC and turn on the ESC. For detailed

information about ESC programming via WiFi module, please refer to the user manual of Hobbywing’sWiFi Express.

The programming port of this ESC is also the fan port, so you need to unplug the fan first and then plug (one end of) the programming cable

in the PRG/FAN port and the other end (of the programming cable) in the ESC port on the LCD program box. Please don’t use the throttle

control cable (also called Rx cable) on the ESC to connect the program box; otherwise the program box won’t function.

AT T ENT ION

Status of LEDs

Trouble Shooting

Factory Reset

• Restore the default values with the SET button

Press and hold the SET button for over 3 seconds anytime when the throttle trigger is at the neutral position (except during the ESC calibration) can factory reset your

ESC. RED & GREEN LEDs flash simultaneously indicating you have successfully restored all the default values within your ESC. Once you power the ESC off, and then back on, your settings

will be back in the default mode.

• Restore the default values with a multifunction LCD program box

After connecting the program box to the ESC, continuously press the “ITEM” button on the program box until you see the “RESTORE DEFAULT” item, and then press “OK” to factory

reset your ESC.

• Restore the default values with a WiFi module (& WiFi Link)

After connecting the WiFi module to the ESC, open the HOBBYWING WiFi LINK software on your smart phone, select “Parameters” followed by “Factory Reset” to reset the ESC.

1. During the Start-up Process

1) The RED LED keeps flashing rapidly indicating the ESC doesn’t detect any throttle signal or the neutral throttle value stored on your ESC may be different from the current value

stored on the transmitter.

2) The GREEN LED flashes “N” times indicating the number of LiPo cells you have connected to the ESC.

2. In Operation

1) RED & GREEN LEDs die out when the throttle trigger is in the throttle neutral zone.

2) The RED LED turns on solid when your vehicle runs forward. The GREEN LED will also come on when pulling the throttle trigger to the full (100%) throttle endpoint.

3) The RED LED turns on solid when you brake your vehicle, the GREEN LED will also come on when pushing the throttle trigger to the full brake endpoint and setting the “brake

amount/maximum brake force” to 100%.

4) The RED LED turns on solid when you reverse your vehicle.

3. Some Protection is Activated

1) The RED LED flashes a short, single flash that repeats ( ) indicating the low voltage cutoff protection is activated.☆, ☆, ☆

2) The GREEN LED flashes a short, single flash that repeats ( ) indicating the ESC thermal protection is activated. ☆, ☆, ☆

3) The GREEN LED flashes a short, double flash that repeats ( ) indicating the motor thermal protection is activated.☆☆ ☆☆ ☆☆, ,

4) The RED & GREEN LEDs flash a short, single flash that repeats ( ) at the same time indicating the drive mode has been automatically switched to sensorless mode from ☆, ☆, ☆

senored mode because of abnormal sensor signal when pairing the ESC with a sensored motor.

Trouble(s) Solution(s)Possible Causes

1. No power was supplied to the ESC.

2. The ESC switch was damaged.

1. Check if all ESC & battery connectors have been well soldered or

firmly connected.

2. Replace the broken switch.

The ESC was unable to start the status LED, the motor, and the

cooling fan after it was powered on.

1. The ESC didn't detect any throttle signal.

2. The neutral throttle value stored on your ESC is different from the

one stored on the transmitter.

1. Check if the throttle wire is reversely plugged in or in the wrong

channel and if the transmitter is turned on.

2. Re-calibrate the throttle range after you release the throttle

trigger to the neutral position.

After the ESC was powered on and finished LiPo detection, the

GREEN LED flashed N times, and then the RED LED flashed rapidly.

Your chassis is different from popular chassis. Set the “Motor Rotation” to “CW”.

The vehicle ran backward when you pulled the throttle trigger

towards you.

1. The receiver was influenced by some foreign interference.

2. The ESC entered the LVC protection.

3. The ESC entered the thermal shutdown protection.

1. Check all devices and try to find out all possible causes,

and check the transmitter’s battery voltage.

2. The RED LED keeps flashing indicating the LVC protection is

activated, please replace your pack.

3. The GREEN LED keeps flashing indicating the thermal shutdown

protection is activated, please let your ESC cool down before

using it again.

The motor suddenly stopped or significantly reduced the output

in operation.

1. Some soldering between the motor and the ESC was not so good.

2. The ESC was damaged (some MOSFETs were burnt).

1. Check all soldering points, please re-solder if necessary.

2. Contact the distributor for repair or other customer services.

The motor stuttered but couldn’t start.

1. The throttle neutral position on your transmitter was actually in the

braking zone.

2. Set the “Running Mode” improperly.

3. The ESC was damaged.

1. Re-calibrate the throttle neutral position. No LED on the ESC will

come on when the throttle trigger is at the neutral position.

2. Set the “running mode” to “Forward/Reverse with Brake”.

3. Contact the distributor for repair or other customer services.

The vehicle could run forward (and brake), but could not reverse.

1. The neutral position on the transmitter was not stable, so signals

were not stable either.

2. The ESC calibration was not proper.

1. Replace your transmitter

2. Re-calibrate the throttle range or fine tune the neutral position

on the transmitter.

The car ran forward/backward slowly when the throttle trigger

was at the neutral position.

The programming cable with 2 JR male connectors was plugged into

the wrong port at the ESC end.

The programming port of this ESC is also the fan port, so please

unplug the fan and then plug the programming cable with 2 JR

male connectors to the fan port.

The LCD program box kept displaying “CONNECTING ESC”

after you connected it to your ESC.

1. The ESC throttle cable wasn’t plugged in the correct channel on

the receiver.

2. The ESC throttle cable was reversely plugged in.

1. Plug the throttle cable into the throttle (TH) channel on

your receiver.

2. Plug in the throttle cable properly by referring to relevant mark

shown on your receiver.

When pressing the SET button to set the throttle neutral position,

the GREEN LED didn’t flash and no beep was emitted, or you

were unable to set the full throttle endpoint and the full brake

endpoint after the neutral position was accepted.

When pairing with a sensored motor, the ESC will automatically

switch to sensorless mode from sensored mode when errors occur.

1. Check if the sensor cable is loose or poor contact exists.

2. The Hall sensor inside the motor is damaged.

GREEN & RED LEDs flash rapidly at the same time when the

throttle stick/trigger is at the neutral position.

The battery voltage was beyond the normal operating voltage range

of the ESC. Check the battery voltage.

The ESC was unable to start the motor after it was powered on,

but the motor beeped a short, double beep that repeats with

GREEN LED on the ESC blinked. (The interval between two

beeps was 1 second.)

Option 1

1. Running Mode

2. LiPo Cells

3. Cutoff Voltage

4. ESC Thermal Protection

5. Motor Thermal Protection

6. Motor Rotate

7.BEC Voltage

8. Brake Force

9. Reverse Force

10. Start Mode (Punch)

Advanced Settings

11.Drag Brake

12.Coast

13.Neutral Range

14.Drive Mode

15.Boost Timing

16.Turbo Timing

17.Turbo Delay

Option 2 Option 3 Option 4 Option 5 Option 6 Option 7 Option 8 Option 9

Fwd/Brk

Auto Calculation

Disabled

105 /221℃ ℉

Disabled

CCW

6.0V

12.5%

25%

Level 1

0%-100% adjustable (Default: 0%)

0%-20% adjustable (Default: 0%)

Sensored/Sensorless Hybrid

Fwd/Rev/Brk

Auto

125 /257℃ ℉

105 /221℃ ℉

7.4V

25%

50%

Level 2

6S4S

Forward and Reverse

62.5% 75.0% 87.5% 100% Disabled50.0%

Level 5 Level 6 Level 7 Level 8 Level 9Level 4

100%

0.2s 0.25s 0.3s 0.35s 0.4s0.15s0.1s0.05s

Customized (5.0-20V)

Disabled

125 /257℃ ℉

37.5%

75%

Level 3

0-15 degrees adjustable (default: 0 degree).

9% Normal（）

Full-Sensored

12%

Instant

Basic Setting

• Compatible with sensored/sensorless brushless motors. In sensored mode, it’s compatible with most popular sensored brushless motors on the market. In sensorless mode, it’s compatible

with 99% of brushless motors on the market.

• Full sensored mode supported (when pairing this XR8 SCT/Plus ESC with a HOBBYWING matching sensored) for a very linear & smooth power band.

• Turbo Timing technology (implemented by this XR8 SCT/Plus ESC)to unleash the maximum power of a HOBBYWING matching sensored motor.

• Super internal switch-mode BEC with switchable voltage of 6V/7.4V and cont. /peak current of 6A/15A for easily driving big torque servos and high voltage servos.

• Highly reliable electronic switch avoids troubles which may happen to traditional mechanical switch due to dirt, water, dash and etc.

• Aluminum cases build highly efficient heat dissipation system.

• Separate programming port to easily connect the LCD program box to the ESC.

• Proportional brake with 9 levels of Maximum Brake Force and adjustable Drag Brake Force range from 0 to 100%.

• 9 levels of acceleration/punch from “soft” to “aggressive” for different vehicles, tires and tracks.

• Innovative “COAST” function will make the RC vehicle coast like a real car after you release the throttle trigger, avoid the sudden slow-down (this sudden slow-down often happens to

motors with very strong magnetic force), and brings you the great control feel.

• Capacitor Protection：Innovative Capacitor Protection effectively protects capacitors from exploding and causing irreversible damage to the ESC because of overload.

• Multiple protections: motor lock-up protection, low-voltage cutoff protection, thermal protection, overload protection, and fail safe (throttle signal loss protection).

• Advanced programming via the portable multifunction LCD program box or WiFi module.

• Firmware upgrade via HOBBYWING multifunction LCD program box or WiFi module (item sold separately).

• Ensure all wires and connections are well insulated before connecting the ESC to related devices, as short circuit will damage your ESC.

• Ensure all devices are well connected, in order to prevent poor connections that may cause your vehicle to lose control or other unpredictable issues like damage to the device.

• Read through the manuals of all power devices and chassis and ensure the power configuration is rational before using this unit.

• Please use a soldering iron with the power of at least 60W to solder all input/output wires and connectors.

• Do not hold the vehicle in the air and run it up to full throttle, as rubber tires can “expand” to extreme size or even crack to cause serious injury.

• Stop using the ESC when its casing temperature exceeds 90℃/194℉; otherwise the ESC may get destroyed and may also get your motor damaged. We recommend setting the “ESC

Thermal Protection” to 105 (this refers to the internal temperature of the ESC).℃/221℉

• Always disconnect and remove batteries after use, as the ESC will continue to consume current if it’s still connected to batteries (even if the ESC is turned off). Long-time contact will

cause batteries to completely discharge and result in damage to batteries or/and ESC. This will not be covered under warranty.

1. Turn on the transmitter, set parameters on the throttle channel like “D/R”, “EPA” and

“ATL” to 100% (for transmitter without LCD, please turn the knob to the maximum) and

the throttle “TRIM” to 0 (for transmitter without LCD, please turn the corresponding knob

to the neutral position). For FutabaTM radio transmitter, the direction of throttle channel

shall be set to “REV”, while other radio systems shall be set to “NOR”. Please ensure the

“ABS braking function” of your transmitter must be DISABLED.

Hold the SET

button.

Move the throttle trigger to the neutral position and

press the SET button.

Press the

ON/OFF button Release the SET

button once the LED

flashes.

3 Set the neutral point, the full throttle endpoint and the full brake endpoint.

• Leave the throttle trigger at the neutral position, press the SET button, the RED LED dies out and the GREEN LED flashes 1 time and the motor beeps 1 time to accept the neutral position.

• Pull the throttle trigger to the full throttle position, press the SET button, the GREEN LED blinks 2 times and the motor beeps 2 times to accept the full throttle endpoint.

• Push the throttle trigger to the full brake position, press the SET button, the GREEN LED blinks 3 times and the motor beeps 3 times to accept the full brake endpoint.

4 The motor can be started 3 seconds after the ESC/Radio calibration is complete.

The Green LED

flashes once and

motor emits

“Beep” tone.

Move the throttle trigger to the end position of forward

and press the SET button.

The Green LED flashes

twice and motor emits

“Beep-Beep”

tone.

Move the throttle trigger to the end position of

backward and press the SET button.

The Green LED flashes

three times and motor

emits

“Beep-Beep-

Beep” tone.

2. Start with transmitter on and the ESC turned off but connected to a battery. Holding the SET button and press the ON/OFF button to turn on the ESC, the RED LED on the ESC starts to flash

(Note 3: the motor beeps at the same time), and then release the SET button immediately.

Note 3： Beeps from the motor may be low sometimes, and you can check the LED status instead.

1. Running Mode

Option 1: Forward with Brake.

The vehicle can go forward and brake but cannot reverse in this mode. This mode is usually for racing.

Option 2: Forward/Reverse with Brake.

This mode provides the braking function, it’s usually for training. “Forward/Reverse with Brake” mode adopted the “DOUBLE-CLICK” method, that is your

vehicle only brakes (won’t reverse) when the 1st time you push the throttle trigger forward (away from you) (1st push). If the motor stops when you quickly release the throttle trigger and then

re-push the trigger quickly (2nd push), the vehicle will reverse. If the motor does not stop, then your vehicle won’t reverse but brake, you need to push the throttle trigger one more time. The vehicle

only reverses after the motor stops. This method is for preventing vehicle from being accidentally reversed.

Option 3: Forward and Reverse

This mode is often used by special vehicles (rock crawler). It adopts the “SINGLE-CLICK” method. The vehicle will reverse immediately when you push the throttle trigger forward.

2. LiPo Cells

“Auto Calculation” is the default setting,the XERUN XR8 PLUS can identify 2S, 3S, 4S and 6S while the XERUN XR8 SCT can identify 2S, 3S and 4Swhen setting this item to “Auto Calculation".

If LiPo batteries are often used with the same cell count, we would strongly recommend setting this item manually to avoid the incorrect “calculation” (For instance, the ESC may take a not fully

charged 3S LiPo as a fully charged 2S LiPo) which may cause the low-voltage cutoff protection to not function ideally.

Note 4: You need to set this item to “Auto Calculation.” when you use a NiMH pack or a 5S LiPo, AND customize the "Low Voltage Cutoff" threshold.

3. Cutoff Voltage

Sets the voltage at which the ESC lowers or removes power to the motor in order to protect the LiPo battery from irreversible damage caused by over discharge. The ESC will monitor the battery

voltage all the time, it will immediately reduce the power to 50% and cut off the output 10 seconds later when the voltage goes below the cutoff threshold. The RED LED will flash a short, single

flash that repeats ( ) to indicate the low-voltage cutoff protection is activated. If you use a NiMH pack, then please set the “Cutoff Voltage” to “Disabled”.☆, ☆, ☆

Option 1: Disabled.

The ESC won’t cut off the power due to low voltage after you select this option. We do not recommend using this option when you use any LiPo battery, otherwise you will

irreversibly damage it. However, for avoiding losing power in racing due to low voltage, we recommend using this option (this still may cause damage to your battery pack). You need to select this

option when you use a NiMH pack.

Option 2: Auto.

The ESC will automatically calculate the corresponding cutoff voltage as per the number of LiPo cells it detects and the “3.1V/cell” rule. For example, if the ESC detects a 4S Lipo,

then the cutoff voltage for the battery shall be 3.1x4=12.4V.

Option 3: Customized.

The customized cutoff threshold is a voltage for the whole battery pack (the voltage is adjustable from 5.0V to 20V for the XERUN XR8 PLUS, 5.0V to 14.0V for the XERUN XR8 SCT). Please calculate

the value as per the number of LiPo cells you are using. For example, when you use a 4S and you want the cutoff voltage for each cell is 3V, then you need to set this item to 12V.

Note 5: please set this item to CUSTOMIZED when you use a 5S LiPo.

4. ESC Thermal Protection

The ESC will automatically cut off the output and the GREEN LED will flash a short, single flash that repeats ( ) when the temperature gets up to the value you preset and activates the ESC ☆, ☆, ☆

thermal protection. The output won’t resume until the temperature gets down.

Warning! Never set the ESC Overheat protection to DISABLED unless in some special situations like racing, otherwise you may damage your ESC and even damage your motor.

5. Motor Thermal Protection

The motor will automatically cut off the output and the GREEN LED will flash a short, double flash that repeats ( ) when the temperature gets up to the value you preset and activates ☆☆, ☆☆, ☆☆

the motor thermal protection. The output won’t resume until the temperature gets down.

Warning! Never set the Motor Overheat Protection to DISABLED unless in some special situations like racing, otherwise you may damage your ESC and even damage your motor. For

non-HOBBYWING motor, different thermal sensor may cause the ESC to trigger the Motor Thermal Protection early or later. In this case, please set the Motor Overheat Protection to

DISABLED and check the motor temperature with an infrared thermometer (or bare hand if you don’t have the device, but be careful all the time) regularly.

6. Motor Rotate

Pull the throttle trigger with the motor shaft faces you, the motor spins counter clockwise if this item is set to CCW; the motor spins clockwise if it’s set to CW. In general, the vehicle goes forward

when the motor rotates counter clockwise. However, some chassis manufacturers design their products base on the completely different theories, so your vehicle may go backward when the motor

spins counter clockwise. In that case, you need to set this item to CW instead.

7. BEC Voltage

Option 1: 6.0V.

It’s applicable to ordinary servos. Do not use this option with high voltage servos; otherwise your servos may not function normally due to insufficient voltage.

Option 2: 7.4V.

It’s applicable to high voltage servos. Do not use this option with ordinary servos; otherwise your servos may be burnt due to high voltage.

8. Brake Force

This ESC provides the proportional braking function; the braking effect is decided by the position of the throttle trigger. It sets what percentage of available braking power is applied with full brake.

Large amount will shorten the braking time but it may damage your pinion and spur. Please select the most suitable brake amount as per your car condition and your preference.

9. Reverse Force

Different reverse amount will bring different reversing speed. For the safety of your vehicle, we recommend using a low amount.

10. Start Mode / Punch

You can choose the punch from level 1 (very soft) to level 9 (very aggressive) as per the track, tires, grip, your preference and etc. This feature is very useful for preventing tires from slipping in the

starting-up process. In addition, “level 7”, “level 8 and “level 9” have strict requirement on battery’s discharge capability. It may affect the starting-up if the battery discharges poorly and cannot

provide large current in a short time. The car stutters or suddenly loses power in the starting-up process indicating the battery’s discharge capability is not good; you need to reduce the punch or

increase the FDR (Final Drive Ratio).

11. Drag Brake

Drag brake is the braking power produced when releasing the throttle trigger to neutral zone. This is to simulate the slight braking effect of a neutral brushed motor while coasting.

(Attention! Drag brake will consume much power, so please apply it cautiously.)

12. Coast

It allows the motor to gradually lower RPM when reducing the throttle from full or near full speed back to neutral. The vehicle will not abruptly slow when the throttle is reduced to return to the

neutral position. The bigger the value, the more the “COAST” will be felt. Example, COAST of 0 deactivates, and a COAST of 20% would be the maximum amount of COAST.

What is COAST?

When a vehicle is operated with smaller pinions and larger spur gears the vehicle tends to create a feel of braking known as “gear brake”. HOBBYWING COAST technology is to allow the car to roll

(coast) as if the vehicle was geared with a larger pinion. The Coast function brings better and smoother control feelings to racers. Also some drivers will refer to this feel as how the traditional

brushed motors felt --- they “COASTED” more because the armature with the wire on it was heavy and harder to stop spinning - in the brushless motor the rotor being relatively light stops spinning

more abruptly.

Note 6: The “Coast” will be void (even if you set it to any value besides 0) if the above “ drag brake ” is not “0%”.

13. Neutral Range

Adjust the throttle neutral zone as per your preference (as shown). Because the neutral position on some transmitters is not stable and it can cause the vehicle to go forward/backward slowly,

so please set the throttle neutral width to a bigger value when this issue happens.

14. Drive Mode

Option 1: Sensored/Sensorless Hybrid.

The ESC drives the motor in sensored mode during the low-speed start-up process, after that the ESC will switch to driving the motor in sensorless mode.

Option 2: Full Sensored.

You can select this option only when using a HOBBYWING matching motor (that means HOBBYWING new 1:8th motor without Hall sensor interference), the control

feeling will be better, the efficiency of the power system will be higher, and the turbo timing of the ESC can be activated to get the maximum burst power.

Note 7: 1) The Full Sensored mode can be effective only when you’re pairing this XR8 SCT/Plus ESC with a HOBBYWING’s matching motor like XERUN 4268/4274 G2.

2) If you’re using some other motor besides a HOBBYWING matching motor, the ESC will still identify the motor and automatically switch the drive mode to Sensored / Sensorless Hybrid

even if you’ve set it to Full Sensored.

15. Boost Timing

Boost Timing is adjustable from 0 degree to 15 degrees, it has three effects:

1) Compatible with different motors. Some motors may function abnormally with the default Boost Timing (0), you need to adjust the timing to a proper degree and then they will work fine.

2) Fine tune the maximum RPM of the motor through adjusting this Boost Timing. The bigger the timing, the higher the RPM, and the more electric energy it will consume.

3) Make the motor operate at the optimum efficiency point through adjusting this Timing.

Note 8: The Bosst Timing becomes effective only when you set the Drive Mode to Sensored/Sensorless Hybrid. In other words, it doesn’t effect in the Full Sensored mode.

16. Turbo Timing

Turbo Timing is adjustable from 0 degree to 15 degrees for the XERUN XR8 PLUS while 0 degree to 20 degrees for the XERUN XR8 SCT, the corresponding turbo timing (you set) will initiate at full

throttle. It’s usually activated on pretty long straightaway and makes the motor unleash its maximum potential.

17. Turbo Delay

Turbo delay is the time from the throttle stick/trigger is moved to the full throttle position and keeps at that point to the moment Turbo Timing is really activated. If you set this item to “INSTANT”,

then the Turbo Timing will be activated right after the throttle stick/trigger is moved to the full throttle position. If set it to any other values, then you need to keep the throttle stick/trigger at the full

throttle position for a while (as you set) till the Turbo Timing initiates.

Note 9: "Turbo Timing" and "Turbo Delay" only function when you set the “Drive Mode” to “Full Sensored”.

In order to make the ESC match the throttle range, you must calibrate it when you begin to use a new ESC, or a new transmitter, or after you change the settings such as the TRIM, D/R, EPA

and other parameters of throttle channel on your transmitter, otherwise the ESC cannot work properly. We strongly recommend activating the “Fail Save” function of the radio system and set

it (F/S) to “Output OFF” or set its value to the “Neutral Position” to ensure the motor can be stopped when there is no signal received from the transmitter. About setting the throttle range,

let’s take Futaba